I'd say the greatest headache by far has been the software/electronics side. I switched from the Phoenix due to it constantly disconnecting, to a genuine Arduino Uno R3. It actually runs perfectly fine with the exception of limits. Z homes properly. However, X and Y are somehow tied together. If the X limit is triggered, it acts as though the Y was also triggered and initiates the step off on both axi. The same occurs if the Y limit is triggered. The limits worked perfectly fine with the Phoenix. This is the same exact setup, but carried over to the R3. I even tried my newer closed loop limit breakout with the same results. (The current loop is open.)
$0 - 10 $1 - 255 $2 - 0 $3 - 0 $4 - 0 $5 - 0 $6 - 0 $10 - 1 $11 - 0.020 $12 - 0.002 $13 - 0 $20 - 0 $21 - 1 $22 - 1 $23 - 0 $24 - 50.000 $25 - 2000.000 $26 - 5 $27 - 2.000
Maybe something like the x and y limit pins on the arduino have shorted together either by bad soldering job during manufacturing or a stray piece of wire when you wired them . Easy enough to test with a multimeter.
$26 value is probably too small. Try 250ms. Also for now, bump up your $27 to 5mm or more. Just until you get it working correctly.
That would have been mind blowingly amazing if that was it, but sadly there is no continuity. I actually started at 250ms, but dropped it after reviewed my old settings. I'll try raising it to 1000ms though. Edit: I just learned that 255 is the highest. That's definitely not it though.
Well, I'm sure someone with more experience will jump in here. I know I had false triggers when I was on my arduino until I added an octocoupler thingy. Any chance you are using OB Control? If so, have you looked at the troubleshooting tab to see if both switches are really being triggered with you manually trigger one of them? Have you tried homing with the Y limit disconnected? I know, I'm really grabbing at straws here.
What happens if you say, unplug Y, then home, does Y still stop after X limit is hit? edit: Oops I see Sharmstr asked the same! Great minds think alike Also, Are you 100% sure you are on stock-standard Grbl 1.1f? from gnea/grbl ? Any clues in the Serial Log? Any Alarms?
The version that's on it is 1.1g. (The Phoenix was running on 1.1e.) I've been trying to see if I can redo the flash, but I can't even add the library to Arduino or Arduino IDE. When I initially flashed it, the folder was named "grbl-master". I'm still playing with it though. As for the logs, nothing out of the ordinary.
Unless I've missed something, you're looking to get a stock (no customization) version of grbl on to your arduino right? If so, then why not use OB Control? It has a flashing tool under Wizards & Tools.
I've been playing with it off an on. I switched back to the Phoenix since I know it at least got me past homing. I even tried OB Software as suggested which was a great help to finally see the homing trigger (wasn't showing on Panel for some reason). Any homing switch triggers all three. Here is the interesting part. I disconnected Y from the Phoenix, then triggered it. Of course the Y should remain off/green, but X and Z still trigger. I disconnected ground to make sure I didn't have something misplaced, and nothing triggered (good!). So that means it's a hardware issue. Something is bridging everything. The only place that could happen is at the auxiliary connector. It's a 9 pin with only 6 pins populated. The male side (socket) did have a little bit of corrosion, but there is absolutely no continuity between any pins. The same goes for the female (plug) side. From there, it's one wire running up to the controller. That wire is a 4 conductor jacketed wire that has been tucked in the groove of the extrusion used to make the electronic panel. Every other wire is independent, shielded, and jacketed. There are no physical marks in any of it. Both controllers, both software, both of my open and closed loop stepper breakouts, nothing. I all out of ideas. The only thing left is to literally tear it all down and rebuild the entire panel.
Someone smarter than me might have an idea here. But I'm wondering what would happen if you take a piece of 2 conductor wire and wire it into Y on the board (or whatever axis) then short the wires to see if only Y gets triggered.
Good idea - start at the board - you just need to short the two connectors for each limit switch and see if any of the others trigger (being careful to only touch the connectors you are testing). Then, if that doesn't cause the problem, work away from the board testing each cable until you identify where the fault occurs. Good luck, Alex.
