Hi IndieLC and everybody,

Studpid question do you guy believe the open build guys will provide me a quote if I only provide them with the BOM file they will provide me back with the total .

I Already have printed the 3d parts and I will be ordering the Laser cut parts which I will also put the note about the HotEnd change.

 

Which hot end kit should I buy from Reprap?
- ormerod
- huxley duo
- Mendel 3

 

Also since I'm looking for all the parts inside Openbuilds, another one is about the Eccentric Spacers.

The BOM list a 1/4" Eccentric Spacer and open build has to options of 1/4" :

the Mini
the Full

which one should I take it?

Thanks

 

Hmmm interesting. But yes I will put them aside for now and sure will use somewhere lol.

But with all the above, my lil printer is put together, just wiring and controller to sort now hehe .

Such a simple but awfully well thought out design....

 

How difficult would it be to increase the build volume? It seems like the Z axis would be pretty easy to lengthen although I'd be much more interested in increasing the X and Y axes. I'm not talking about anything extreme, maybe increase the volume to 160x160x160. I know you would have to use a different heatbed, but would any of the printed or laser cut parts need to be modified?

 

Not sure if it helps, but we are playing with a steroided version of something like this with a 300x300 platform. Only in the planning stages, but looking to use C-Beam for the Z-axis and the Y-axis, with probably 20x40 or 40x40 for the X-beam. Just have to clean up some other builds before I allow myself to play again.

When you think of it, the main thing is the spreading of the platform support for the bed plate on the Y-axis. The Lautr3k and MendelMax go to 300x300 easily and the C-Beam width with inside and outside wheels would make this a rock solid platform for a build plate. The IndieLC already has the strength for the Z-height and the additional weight of a Bowden E3D v6 on a bit longer extrusion should be no big issue, so if you are spending money for motors, extrusion, electronics, etc........I say....if you're gonna be a bear, be a Grizzly!

RobotDigg has really 300x300 nice heaters for $24 delivered, and I usually bring in my boro from Aleph (Lulzbot) since I know their quality. Automation Technologies has pretty decent nema 17's for under $10 delivered in the US if you buy 10 at a time. Go in on some with a friend, and save.

 

We were thinking aluminum plates and 6 or 8 wheels on the carriage rolling up and down the Z-axis C-Beam. Beefy and resistant to improper movement. With only a slight modification, a nema 17 will fit into the pocketed channel of the C-beam.

We are on the downhill side of revamping our makerspace CNC router and I suspect it will be making plates for this one-armed weirdness.

 

Will do, when we get that far, but many irons in the fire right now, and I stay pretty busy printing parts for builds. I have all of the motors, extrusions. electronics, glass, bed, etc. just have to stop mental designs and stay on task to finish the existing list. Luckily, our group of people jumping in to the printer build arena at our space is growing and some are willing to help.

 

Wow, 300x300 is quite large! I'm not sure I can think of anything that big I would want to print! I suppose I could print a near full size model of my Grandmother (she's quite small)... I like the idea of having the ability to print that large, even though I wouldn't most of the time. Better to have and not need than to need and not have... Please post details when you get to that point!

 

Big??? It barely holds both half's of a beer bottle stein .stl! My experience with the 180mm and 200mm heated beds have been dismal. Temp measuring around the plate seems very inconsistent. People complain on every board about prints lifting and/or popping loose on those beds. My beds hold great heat consistency with the external Mosfet board and power supply, and I can go from room temp to 103C in 4minutes, 10 seconds. I hate limitations. "RackDaddy", the space printer will be 600x600 to print whole printer parts plates at one time. Come to Area515 Makerspace, pick a printer plan, and we intend to be able to print the parts, have class and you get to leave with a complete, working printer. That is the goal, and I think we can make it happen. It will generate news and support for our group.

 

Thanks for the reply! I have a bunch (probably enough to build four or five of your design) of 20x40 aluminum extrusion sitting in my closet waiting to be used. Since I have so much I figured I'd see about making a printer with a larger build volume. What I'd really like to do is design something simple like yours, but try to avoid using any custom parts (3D printed, lasercut, etc). I really appreciate that you have the parts for your build available for purchase. Most builds I've seen require access to a printer or laser cutter directly, to keep the costs reasonable. I think a lot of people who want to build a 3D printer can't because of the cost of having the parts made through a service. I think a simple, inexpensive design using standard off the shelf parts would help a lot of people (myself included). Anyway, great work, thanks for the inspiration and motivation!

 

I got my parts from Open Builds, and motors on order. I want to get the LC parts cut using ponoko.com as they will cut and ship from the US. My problem is the line colors are not correct so they kick back the file. I can use Illustrator to change the colors, but when I open the file it asks for scale and when using the "original scale" it wants to set 1 unit to 1 point (I don't think that's what I want). But when I change the Illustrator units to mm it states that 1 unit will be 0.3528mm. I am not used to working with these types of files but that seems strange to me. I just want to make sure if I mess with the file I don't screw the scaling up.

For ponoko the line color needs to be RGB: 0, 0, 255 for cutting and RGB 255, 0, 0 for line engraving.

Edit: I noticed their acrylic is 3mm, and 4.5mm or 5.6mm. Do you think the 4.5mm would be troublesome?

 

That is true I guess. I have been wanting to take a look at OpenScad, so maybe now is the time to try it. When I referred to 4.5mm that is the thickness of the acrylic they have. If I go that route the pieces will be slightly thinner so I will have to deal with that when assembling. It's only half a mm, but I am worried about tolerances...

 

Turns out that once I was able to get a price quote on having it cut it was more expensive than ordering yours (even with shipping to US). So I just ordered your last set

Now I just need to get my plastic printer going and print the parts. I am waiting on a new print bed, a base to use the geckotek PLA printing surface.

 

Almost have mine build and ready to run, looking to run mine of a 24v psu (with some step downs) and looking into a thermal protection circuit lol.

I have one question through, on the heatbed, do you have the enabe pin connected to the Minitronics PCB? and if so how have you interfaced it (onto AUX1 D30)?

Again thank you for all the help.

regards,

Mr Me (Darv)

 

Ahhhh, you cheeky so n so. lol. so your using the mosfet on the actual control board to drive the head-bead. was wondering why there was a second on the actual heat-bead hehe.

Thank you.

May complicate things a little for the thermal protection circuit I'm thinking about, but will work something out hehe.

I was thinking of using the enable line as an indicator as to whether the heat-bed was in use or not. May have to tap off the actual power line instead, pass it through an opto-isolator and work with it that way.

 

Great design, by the way. Would it be possible to export the exploded diagrams in .pdf or some other format which can be enlarged/scaled? Enlarging the jpegs only makes them impossible to read. Thank you!

 

If you ever design a version based around Nema 17's I'f be very interested too. Love the thought and design that has go into this build. I've got a few spare 17's that i would happy use on something like this....