Not sure I understand. One end has 2 bearings (see image above) and the other is connected to the motor shaft via coupler. Are you wanting to build a bearing plate in front of the stepper to eliminate he motor being a support bearing? We could make both ends 5mm and use a 5mm coupler, but the machining would need to go further up the shaft to support the bearing in front of the coupler. That could be in all of the shafts to use or not use a bearing plate, we need to determine how much further down the screw to machine.

Are you going to be offering bearing support plates? The Lautr3k BOM already calls for 4 605zz bearings for the X and Y screws, and I bought a set of 10 bearings for what others were asking for 4. It would be nice to have a bearing plate to use the same bearings.

 

Please just use the shaft diameter from the initial specification so we can use the original stl files.

 

Yes do use the orig specs I will just find someone to turn mine down to 5 mm to suit my needs, my printer is a aluminum version with my own mods

 

I should be able to turn yours down for you when they get here, Robert. We can work that through in a conversation then. I might want to try that myself.

OK, so I will contact her and tell her the finished dimensions.

Has anyone checked the pdf's I posted to see if the nut measurements will mate to the printed parts?

 

FYI, Robotdigg are offering TR8x20 threaded rod stepper motors now. May be a suitable alternative for these kind of printers.
http://www.robotdigg.com/product/236/Rapid-Threaded-Rod-Stepper-with-450mm-Tr8*20-Lead-Screw

Maybe someone could modify the printed parts to use a 608 support bearing so the rod ends don't need to be machined.

 

Well guys...I must first say, I'm sorry. The Helix Nook deal I was working on turns out to not be a deal. It is my fault, I misread the quote email. From the quote: "Total price for a 19.69" long bar with the ends machined for a quantity of 10 would be $221.90." I mistakenly thought $221.90 divided by a quantity of 10 would be $22.19 each, plus approx. $45 each for the nuts. But when the total on the order for 12 screws and 10 nuts came in over $3000 I freaked. I called Jess and she said that $221.90 was each if we bought at least 10.

I guess I'm an idiot, but I tried. I stopped the order and she will call me Tuesday to see whey can do to save the business, but I have already told her our previous source was $100 each, so I don't hold out much hope.

I was going to order 300x300mm heater(s) for mine, from RobotDigg, so I will add a couple of the TR8x20 Assemblies referenced by asb_79 to see how those work. You could cut the screws off of the steppers and srtill be less money tan I have found!

Again, I am sorry.

 

Not a problem, thanks for looking into this. I am just starting to assemble a parts list here myself. Is there any reason this screw has to be 25pitch? excuse my newbeeness

 

If you dont mind using imperial leadscrew which in my opinion should not matter too much except layer heights. Try http://www.roton.com/Mating_Components.aspx?family=7060998 those are reasonably priced but no machining pricing.

 

I am ordering 2 of the screw assemblies mentioned above from RobotDigg, as well as 2 300x300mm heating pads. Hopefully they will work out well, and the shipping wasn't much more that I was quoted for shipping 1 heater.

 

FYI, I *did* already order those screws as well and I asked that they machined the ends for me. Did a great job, fits the 605zz quite snuggly.

This was the quote I got:
17HS5005-400Tr8*20 with machine ends 2PCS @100USD

 

I ordered 2 of the screws and 2 300x300 heat pads. They are on the way. I intend to cut and machine my own.

 

Not sure what everyone is using for controller board, but if you get a large heat bed RAMPS will not be able to supply enough current without burning up. At least not without a SSR or something..

The 300x300 pad from robotdigg was around 13A required, and ramps can only do 11A. So I am looking at buying the RAMBO from http://reprapelectro.com/, which can provide 15A, thoughts?

 

What do you think about this lead scew and nut combination from IGUS?

Nut: JFRMZ1-10X50
Lead screw: PTGSG-S-S10X50

Specification: http://www.igus.fr/_Product_Files/Download/pdf/05_07_GL6_EU_drylin_SD_web.pdf

 

I recently bought the lead screw and nuts from IGUS. Being 10mm they seem like they will sustain high feed rates without any flex. However both the screw and the nuts will have to be machined to fit existing build parts. If you have access to a lathe, I'd say it's a viable option. If not, I'd give the RobotDigg parts a try!

Pos Part Quantity UOM Price $ $ Total

1 DST-LS-10X25-R 1.00 $/PC $57.35 $57.35

DS SCRW10X25

* 1 units at 1000 mm ea (+/- 2mm)


2 DS-JFR10X25-A 2.00 $/Pc $50.89 $101.78

Your Part Number: DST-JFRM-2525DS10X25

DS FLANGE 10X25

 

Started working on this build today. Still looking for some parts like the leadscrew and a large heated bed.

Has anyone tried using a larger printing surface, perhaps glass, than the actual heated bed itself to maximize the print area for this printer? I can see needing some custom clips to keep the glass on the heated bed but wonder how well the glass would retain heat where it doesn't have direct contact with the heater. Perhaps insulating that part of the glass. Anyone tried something like this before and if so with what kind of heated bed?

 

I got my X and Y leadscrews/motors and 300x300 heat pads today from RobotDigg. 10 days from China to Iowa. Not bad!
Well packaged and in great shape. Looking forward to continuing the build.

 

Hi everyone,
I installed the MakerTool y axis screws and they are really hard to turn.
Is this a normal behavior? Do I need to lubrify them?

 

Things in Laurtr3k land have been a bit slow lately, so I thought I would mention a little progress we are having. Since the whole lead-screw debacle, I have been building a Delta and working on a redesign for the high-lead screws for tyhe Laurtr3k. We ordered 2 of the combination Nema17 with 400mm 8x20mm lead screws from RobotDigg ($50). Comes with motor, screw, and nut. The problem is that the nut is smaller in diameter than the designed part. We have patterned a flanged sleeve to be printed that should fit in the Lautr3k parts and connect to the leadscrew nuts. This way, the other parts do not need to be redesigned and you will only have an additional 2 parts to print. We are hoping to print them tonight and test the install this weekend. If/when it works, I will upload the .stl file

 

Thanks for the update. I am going to undertake this build in the new year, I'm hoping the robotdigg lead screws pan out!

 

The first print of the XYshim went very well. Have to make a small relief where is meets the Lautr3k part, and shorten the barrel and we will have it. I plan on mocking up at least the Y-axis channel this weekend and see if we have the center point heights correct, and I think it will be ready. Thank God for plastic printers and designers who hang out at Makerspaces! Go Area515.

 

Hi, first time here.

Can some one clarify the difference between Profile B-type slots and the V slots. Are they all needed?
Edit1: So after digging around I found out that the V-Slot Aluminium Extrusions are for the axises (X Y Z). The others are for the places where there is no movement. The confusion arose because of the name B-type Slot. They are commonly known as T-slotted aluminium profile/extrusion.

 

I just used all V-slot for the whole thing.

 

Hi Folks,

Finally got around to putting the frame together with the TR8x8 (Z axis) and TR8x20 (X/Y axis) from RobotDigg. As @DiggerJ mentioned, the parts look quite nice. I also had to modify a couple of the printed parts to fit the new screws above. I bought the anti-backlash for the TR8x8 as well. For anyone using this combo here are the new parts. I made the section for the Z axis nut thicker, as I had one snap on me when I was assembling it.

This is my first time making changes in SketchUp, but hopefully it will help someone else that is using the same combo.

Cheers,
Gump

 

Thanks for the design of this printer! Thought I would give an update of where my build is, all framed and wired. Just did my first print on it and it looks pretty good so far!

 

Hi all,
I'll build a Lautr3k , I ordered all the part for the frame, the Z lead screw (10mm * 2mm) with delrin nuts, ramps, ...
I think taking Igus 2 lead screw (DST-LS-10x25-R) et 2 DST-JFRM-2525DS10x25
I have a lathe, no problem for the machining. Is it enough with 2 pièces of 400mm?

 

@Shinohara

I got '17HS5005-400Tr8*20 with machine ends 2PCS'. It is as you said, 400mm and the ends were machined to fit the bearings. The motor is also more powerful than the original. This was a custom order that took a while to get (20+ days to ship). If you want to try the motor they have, can cut and machine the end yourself than you can get it faster.

The Z-axis is as is, didnt need to mod it.

Instead of RAMPS 1.4 I opted for a RAMBO because I don't need to bother with the relay for heating the bed etc. As for resolution/speed, I dunno.. never played with leadscrews before I can tell you that the video was doing 100mm/s infills and 200mm/s travels with 3000mm/s^2 acceleration. I've also played around with speeds in pronterface and tried 300mm/s moves with no problem. I doubt I will ever print that fast, but its nice it can get pretty high. Dunno what current I should set on the motors though, will figure that out with time. As fir resolution, I don't see 0.1mm being a problem. I never got lower than that though.

 

Love the build. One question; where can I get the plastic parts for this build?

 

Hello and Happy New Year.
What do you recommend for the heating bed 300mm ? 12v or 24v ( I use ramps 1.4 and so I have to use a relay if I use 12v or 24v, there s to many A for the ramps)
What are you using ?

 

Plastic parts can probably be bought from somewhere like the RepRap forum markets.

I bought this silicone bed http://www.robotdigg.com/product/115/Square-Silicone-Rubber-Heater-Pad, it's a 12v, but 24v will probably heat up faster, up to you really.

 

Where are you located, and what color would you want?