looking sweet

 

Ty
I went with 480mm 20x40 for the Z rails and also plan to use 20x40 for the X.
The support rails will be the only 20x20 used so it's sturdy that's for sure lol

 

Little update using pics




Time to cut some leadscrews and design the X Axis carriage

Edit
Leadscrews installed

 

Just finished up the last parts, I have the X carriage designed in my nerd just gotta make it up in sketchup and mill it
Support plates, and leadscrew end supports

 

Nice work Robert

Tweakie.

 

Robert you must be up and running now ?

 

Not yet lol
Ramps kit will be here end of the week and I'm still waiting for my E3Dv6 to ship.
Also I have no idea what extruder to use.
I have seen the bulldog design but would like to use a design that is proven to work.
Everything is built except the bed plate for the MK2b and mounting plate for the extruder/hotend.

Tried to get some PLA but E3D stock is just hmmm wow!

 

Robert Hummel...oh so you not going to try using the hole 300mm x 300mm bed then ? for filament i use this http://3dfilaprint.com/ its the best iv come a cross so far but do not know what the shipping will be to you tho ...

 

The main bed will be as large as possible for non heated prints
The mk2 may be used in some way "detachable"

 

Found a supply 10 mins from my house
http://filaments.ca/pages/contact-us

 

Ramps kit came in
The hot end not shipped
The MK2B board is not flat so I'm taking it I have some work ahead of me here lol

Is it possible for me to just mill an aluminum 1/4" bed with a way to mount the MK2B when need ?

What solutions are used to get the board flat? as I'm sure that I am not the only one with a un-even bed

 

I'm using a aluminum sheet 2mm thick on top of my 300mmx300mm heat bed with auto bed leveling so i don't worry about a un-even bed.

 

wow that cheap i hope it good stuff too

 

Heat sinks mounted and cured

 

I found these at igus that can be had here in the US for a decent price. I am sure the mounts will need some modifications.
1 DST-LS-10X25-R 2.00 $/PC $21.85 $43.70
DS SCRW10X25
2 units at 381 mm ea
overall length tolerance is +/-2mm
Right Hand,10x25 stainless steel
http://www.igus.com/wpck/10893/SD_Gewindetriebe

 

While looking I noticed the length of the leadscrew listed at 38.1 inches

 

I took a second look at the quote I got from them and it shows 381mm, so should be ok $88US for 2 lead screws and the nuts to go with them. Not too bad a price.

 

I agree that's a good deal for sure
Do they do longer lengths ?

 

Yes, that quote was for the length that skarab said was needed for his build, but I saw this in the quote

"Rail and shafting sections of less than 1000 mm in length are non-returnable and non-
refundable.
Rail and shafting sections exceeding 1,829 mm must ship motor freight. "

 

Robert did you salt some thing out for your bed ? as i having a lot of trouble with my unlevel bed too now even with auto bed leveling as it more of a bowing i'm using the hole 300mm x 300mm, and also getting a wobble in the Y
Anyone got a idea how to fix or a design that can help ? thinking i may do smooth rods and bearings if i can not stop the wobble

 

Hi Skarab,

Tinitylabs stay offline i don't find this 10 start 25mm pitch fast lead screw and nut here in my country

 

Thank you so much Robert Hummel the parts you made are here iv only just got to want until my wheels turn up now, as the openbuilds uk were out of stock so i've ordered them from USA

 

That looks promising. The only thing that has kept me from building a Luatr3k was the closing of Trinity Labs. Hopefully someone will give this a try and report back.

I also think Robert is on to something in regards to creating a kit for the machined parts. It would make things a whole lot easier on everyone sourcing this stuff from the same place we're getting the other components from.

 

if you dont have aluminium spacer you can use m5 washer (7 pieces)
so you can build on sunday your printer.

and TL drawing from fast lead screw have anyone saving this and can post here?
thanks

 

I am hoping to start building this soon now that I am moving into my new house next week. I am going to try using the igus lead screws, but I don't think they are going to fit in the couplings, so would it be better to file down the lead screws or drill out the couplers, and then file down some flat spots for the screws?

 

Hi Todd,

For reliable operation of CNC machines in general it is quite important that the motor shaft / coupler / lead screw are as concentric as possible.
If you do not have access to a lathe then taking the parts to a local machine shop (or friend with a lathe) where they can be turned / drilled accurately will, I am sure, pay dividends in the long term.

Tweakie.