found this in the resources

Anti-Backlash Nut Block (STEP) | OpenBuilds

 

yep everything is C-Beam. I did put the mini wheels into the Z-axis. but didn't take into account that the wheels are not the same thickness, we spent a couple of hours shimming things out to get them right. I also screwed up the other plates that required a little shimming, I am working on a revised set to take care of the 8mm bearing placement so I don't have to shim the 8mm block. here is all the files for the current build,
but I am in the process of moving the 8mm bearings out to reduce shimming, the funny part is the Y gantry didn't require and spacers or shims, fit like it was meant to be designed that way. modify them all you want,
the bearings I got off ebay don't have to make a pocket for them to sit in and they are bigger.
New 10pcs Flange Ball Bearing F608ZZ 8*22*7 mm Metric flanged Bearing

 

Got my wheel spacing off these drawings, seems to work well. was finding some varying wheel diameter sizes, with the gantry installed and the bottom wheels loose we would find at least one wheel free spinning.
when we started adjusting we had to make sure we didn't over tighten the eccentrics . I went with the flanged bearings because there is no need for a pocked, which means your plates are universal for the sides, plus it is a little bigger. If you haven't noticed yet, I have a dimension layer on most of them, you just have to turn it on. the only problem with the mini wheels is the thickness and the screws, we had to make our own length
so they wouldn't hit the inter rail.

 

took a few more pictures this morning. pluss what I hope is the new Y gantry plates. will be testing them out in wood before milling in aluminum

 

Haven't talked about the main hold down board, here is a picture of it. we had the machine drill all the holes. there are 5/16" holes tor dowel pins to align square stock up and 1/4-20 threaded
inserts placed every 3.5 inches around the workable surface . There is also a 24"x24" matching spoil board that goes on top.

 

my plates are 1/4" 6061-T6 , what you see in the last picture is 11mm or 7/16 6061-t6 which we haven't tried yet. where I work we have a materials testing lab and we get metals from customers and some times
they don't want it back and they tell us to recycle it, so I have about 10 sheets of this to play with.

 

this past summer we got a Metal Supermarkets place 2 blocks form where I work.

just picked up some 3003 aluminum for $30.

 

I put the internal wheels on the Z but .....when we starter putting it together I hadn't looked at the specs for the wheels. the mini wheels are nor as thick as the regular V wheels and we had do shim every wheel
on the Z. as far as a drag chain, I am putting a 1" aluminum right angle across the 40mm that the rear wheels ride, that is the reason for the long protrusion on the top of the Z , that is where it will the end will be mounted. I am redesigning the x plates to push the gantry wheels out 20mm, makes it easier to take apart the gantry, should have them later today, I added 20mm rail up both sides and across the gantry. I am
working on a 4 wheel gantry to hold the power for the router and the hose for the vacuum, that way it all travels together. I you need close up pictures of anything let me know and I will post them.

 

yep, does make it stiffer. I haven't seen any real flex out of the Y as I did from the Z. I do have an inner plate made up if I had to go that route. I will attach it. Since it is snowing most of the office either didn't
come in or left at lunch so I dot the mods done for the X. I haven't ran them in wood yet...so untested but all I did was expand them 20mm left and right so all the wheel placements for the Z didn't move.

 

here is a couple more pictures showing the position of the wire chain, as you can see I use the 40mm to also hang some clear vinyl to help keep chips from exiting the rear and I have 1/16 Lexan attached down the
sides to help keep the rails clean. we are going to take the top 40mm of it and using heat guns get it bent to a 90 degree over the rail to better protect the rail from junk getting into it.

 

good idea. here are a couple more pictures , getting closer to a finished.......na never finished always tinkering, CNC router.

Vacuum hose and adapter came from home depot.

 

there are 4 on the lower X wheels and 4 on the left Z wheels and on mine there are 2 on the mini wheels on the inside of the c-beam on the Z

 

did a little more work on it yesterday, finished the mono rail to guide the vacuum hose and power to the router, updated the firmware in the TinyG and gut out some 32mm blocks to test. not bad for a complete rebuild. here is the Y gantry plates, thought I had posted them but looks like I missed it.

 

the SKP file is in the previous post, as far as the Z goes my buddy put it together while I was working on the gantry, here is a couple of pictures showing the wheels

 

got my new dual shaft motors in for the X and Z axis. just finished reworking the Z also. my design doesn't require 1/8' spacer behind the delrin block so I was stumped when my buddy had to put them in. we took it apart and started from scratch and found he had rebuilt it like it had come apart with the 1/8" behind the block, so we removed all the spacers and it all went together without a hitch. here is the pictures of everything we did today.

 

here is a modified x plate design, moves the x wheels out 20mm . we found it difficult to adjust the wheels and get a wrench in there. please check measurements as I haven't cut any tests in wood yet, we will uses
these on my buddy's build. I cut tests out of luan, cheaper than aluminum.

 

couple more pictures