Hows everyone doing ? Well i have decided to step into this and build a Acro 510 which is the 20X40 unit and i know thats the easy part and the wiring of the motors and all ...basically i want to run all the options directly from the openbuilds Acro 510 thats also including the xPRO V4 controller... (keeping it simple as possible) my questions is.... does the laser go directly into the board for signal or does it go through the laser's driver and then the driver communicates with the xpro V4??? again complete newbie.. just trying to get my feet planted... laser that i am looking at is : https://jtechphotonics.com/?product=3-8w-laser-and-2-5amp-safety-compliant-driver-kit heard a lot about the frame and saw the simplicity and the how to videos so i am going with them for it and saw this laser company here on the forms and i think this might be a good solution as well.... and just in case ill be cutting up to 1/4 birch ply (if possible) and up to 1/4 balsa wood.... If any other solutions please help out i just want to be able to get this show on the road so i can have fun with it and make some $$$ and help out local hobby enthusiast.... Thank you guys
The xproV4 would control the laser module, it would comand the laser to fire. That being said I would highly reommend considering the OB BlackBox Motion Control System.
i take it that will replace all .. motor control and laser control correct? again a newbie here so sorry if i am picking it apart ....lol
The laser module it's self is not replaced, but it will take care of all of the motion control and commanding the laser module to fire. Also, you may note that down toward the middle of the main forums page there is a section for Laser Threads. You might get faster/more responses from guys that are doing laser work if you post there.
Start by differentiating "control" from "Laser driver". Control is a signal, on/off/??percentage(PWM). Laser Driver is the electronics that comes with the laser diode (sometimes onboard, sometimes a seperate box) that takes this signal and modulates the laser diode to do what the control signal says. Blackbox/xpro/any other controller, all just output the control signal, straight from Grbl: See gnea/grbl The driver and laser diode you buy, is what determines what you can do. Make sure it supports PWM else you cannot do grayscale engravings. 445nm lasers only work (well) on Organics (Leather, cardboard, wood). Its great at engraving (drawing pictures by burning the surface) but not really usable for cutting (For cuts you want 10s of watts, like a 40-100w. 3.8w doesnt come close (; )
/ so something along the line of The Endurance 10 watt+ (10000 mW) diode laser add-on for 3D printer / CNC mill. would help out with the type of work i am trying to do then?
Better yes, but still, expect to cut in multiple passes (need a Z axis machine) and to take a long time. Cutting and UV lasers, just doesnt really play. Wrong tool for the wrong job (; UV lasers use 445nm wavelengths that doest get absorbed into material as wel as the 10600um wavelengths of CO2 lasers. Scienced
Here's my workflow for cut and laser... Use the CNC to cut, use the laser to make it pretty: Best tool for each job
co2 laser that is out or reach for me.... multiple passes are not an issue.....but it sounds like i might have to invest a little bit more $$$ then what i was looking at.... cause honestly cutting some birch ply which is maybe a max of 1/4 thich if that and balsa wood which is no thincker than 1/4 as well most of the time its 3/32 and if it needs that much laser to cut through it i might have to re-think my whole approach to how and when to do this
Just saying (personal opinion), but for the price of the Endurance 10w (Beware of Endurance as a vendor too....) you can buy two K40 laser machines (; They're not great, but you can fix that with some OB parts: UK40OB
K40 is to little of a working area size.. i need something around the specs of the acro 510 series which is a 30 X 12 bed area... reason for is is because most balsa i buy is 4x36 or 4x24 and its cut out rib parts and misc parts for rc air-frames.. i know you all mean well and its really appreciated
Not sure I understand. To use a CNC router you need 1x Machine: Machine Bundles - OpenBuilds Part Store 1x Router: DeWALT DWP611 Compact Router Endmills. In the video I am using a 6.35mm single flute upcut bit ($7 each on ebay). You'll want an assortment (3.175mm and 6.35mm, with suitable collet reducer: OpenBuilds Part Store to use the 3.175mm bits in the dewalt. Software: This project was done in OpenBuildsCAM and OpenBuildsCONTROL: OpenBuilds Software If you want to cut, get a router. Lasers is great for "artsy"
what i meant was that with a router & bits all that is needed and the frame kit which i mentioned the one i am aiming for due to size requirement .....sounds to me for what i am trying to do that might be the easier and more effective route to go... and also a shop vac to clean up after cause if not blasa dust all over the house .... then i am a dead man
Definately router is gonna be more useful to you. (; dont forget you can then 3D mill some fancy airfoils, wings, etc as you build up skill too. Laser is 2D work only
That machine terrifies me! Bound to loose an eye or shock with the 20kv supply (; Needs an enclosure!
that conversion looks like fun but for a rookie like me that is just looking to cut airframes out of balsa wood that might be over kill... plus the wife would have my head on a silver platter
Note the ACRO frames cannot be used with a Router 1. Designed for lightweight loads 2. Acrylic plates may crack under milling forces 3. It has no Z axis, you need a 3 Axis machine for routing
well all i would really need is 2d because we build up the airfoils with main spars ect... and all i cut is bulkheads and formers... other then that it would be great
If you're only cutting balsa, a dremel would be sufficient and you might be able to get away with using an ACRO 510 if you reverse the axes (i.e. make the X axis the short one). You would still need to add a Z axis though. There are several examples in the laser section.
In the discussion section of the build he shows an enclosure he built for it. Had he used solid panels it would have taken care of the laser getting outside the box.
yeah balsa and some birch ply that i am sure with the right bit and speed i can cut through it like butter... and if anyone can point me in the direction of adding a Zaxis for the dremel to go up and down on the bed please let me know cause now i would have to spend less because i have like 3 dremels that are great for this project
