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OneZ i3

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. Drew Baird

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  2. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Save yourself about half the cost Drew. Don't have them print any of the controller boards box parts or the Y motor housing, or the housing under the PSU. You can run the printer with out those, just lay the PSU and controller board on the table. Then you can print those yourself and finish mounting them later.
     
    Rodm likes this.
  3. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    I am about to tear down a CoreXY printer and was looking at replacing it with a Cartesian type printer and I liked the looks of this unit. I need to have a 300x300 bed and saw some discussion on a printer that size. Was a BOM or cutting list ever published for a unit that size?

    Also, I was looking at the TrueUp and TrueUp Glide and was wondering why, if for the TrueUp, a nylon bushing worked so great, why this one used the rods instead?
     
  4. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The OneZ was designed first, that's why it still used the linear bearings (it was an adaptation of an earlier design).

    Adapting a TrueUp to 300x300x300 would be a lot easier than doing so with the OneZ was. Just add 100mm to the extrusions, use open end belts for X & Y and a 810mm close looped belt for the Z axis. The reach through access holes on the two Y extrusions would need to be moved in an additional 50mm also.
     
  5. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    Thanks. Will look closer at the TrueUp then.
     
  6. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I have a 200 wide 300 long TrueUp in my shop. It didn't need a heat bed, so all I did was add 100mm to the Y extrusions extending forward, a longer belt and bind a 200x300 mirror to the bed with the excess out the back. Theoretically I could have mounted a 200x300 heatbed the same way. No other alteration needed.
     
  7. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    I have been wanting to replace the 200x300 bed on my CoreXY which would require modification to the frame. I have been having issues with it because of the build quality (it was my first) so figured if I was going to rebuild it, just might do a different one. The CoreXY is okay, but I like the Cartesian style better. I probably will keep the build height of the TrueUp the same. I have 350mm on my CoreXY, but I have never come close to needing to print anything that tall. Of course, since I will make this one shorter, the first job I'll have to do on it will need that height. :)
     
  8. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Yup. Just swap out the two upright extrusions for 100mm longer and re-place the two screws with longer ones. No other alterations would need to be made.
     
  9. l337h4l

    l337h4l New
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    I was looking at the BOM and the parts for the frame look different from the images in the assembly guide and from the completed images is that an error or did you change the design for that size vslots
     
  10. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The BOM lists the sizes of rails you need to buy. The assembly guide lists the sizes you need to cut those rails down to.
     
  11. l337h4l

    l337h4l New
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    I worded that wrong the BOM list a piece of 20x20x250 and 20x60x250 but from the images they look like 20x40x250 and 20x80x250
     
  12. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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  13. l337h4l

    l337h4l New
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    Thank you for the fix sorry for being confusing
     
  14. Kevin Besaw

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    Hi, Just starting this build and I cannot find "X belt anchor bracket". I am thinking it is a printed part but not sure now. Can someone point me in the right direction. Thank you
     
  15. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The X Belt Anchor is a printed part. The spacers press fit into it are 6mm from Aluminum Spacers
     
  16. Kevin Besaw

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    Thanks Keith, is there an STL for that part? I spent some time searching but came up empty. Very nice design...Thank you for sharing it.
     
  17. Kevin Besaw

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    Got it sorted. Downloaded sketchup, loaded SketchUp STL | SketchUp Extension Warehouse, erased extra items from misc-parts-blk.skp, then exported STL. Seemed to work fine printing part now.
     
  18. Marco B

    Marco B New
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    I don't know why, but I like this build more than the Trueup and decided to build it for myself.
    Thank you for your time and energy to publish this build!

    But there are 2 facts in the bom which confusing me.
    I think you missed the universal plate from openbuilds and somehow wrote 2 heatbeds instead.
    Second one, I can't find out, where I need the 24 Bearing V624ZZ or U604ZZ from robotdigg

    Could you please help me?
     
  19. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    You can use a Openbuilds universal build plate for the Y build plate, or, what I use, is a second heatbed. Both have to be drilled for the mount wheels and using the aluminum heat bed actually looks better since it has only the holes you drill, whereas the universal has tons of unused holes. Either works the same. And the aluminum heat bed is quite a bit cheaper.

    There are 2 guide wheels on the top cap for each Z axis upright. They are the guides the filament goes through. Use either V624ZZ or U604ZZ bearings. When I first built OneZs robotdigg did not carry the U604ZZ and I had 100 of the V624ZZ on hand.

    Personally I like the OneZ more too. But, I had too much shipment damage with OneZ if I shipped it assembled. The TrueUp never has a problem.
     
  20. Steve Jeppesen

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    :thumbsup: Thumbs Up from another OneZ user! Lost count how many times I said it but worth saying again...Thanks Alot Keith!
     
  21. Marco B

    Marco B New
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    Ah okay,

    I will make some changes; so using trapezoid thread spindle (10x2) instead of threaded rod, so I'm loosing some resolution but they should be more accurate because I've got some bad experience using threaded rods.
    Also due to my stock resources I will use an Arduino and Ramps 1.4 Shield. The Stepperdrivers will be digital ones from Leadshine.
    A friend of mine will help me to modify the firmware, he just finished his cnc-mill.

    Because of these changes, a BOM of my OneZ will not be as low as yours, but I'm really looking forward for all the parts ordered some days ago to arrive at home :)

    The hardest part would be to modify the printed Parts. Im a bit scared, but I think it is possible.
     
  22. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Consider using OpenBuilds Tr8*8-2p lead screw. The Nut Block I use for the threaded rod is my M8 adaptation of OpenBuild's Nut Block for the Tr8*8-2p. The two blocks are swappable with each other. Use a 16Tooth pulley on the Z motor and 20Tooth pulleys on the lead screws and you get .01 resolution at full steps each. The only reason I used threaded rod was cost, and I can buy mine from the manufacturer so they are true.
    Transmission - Lead Screws & Nut Blocks - OpenBuilds Part Store
     
  23. nspence

    nspence New
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    I finally completed my OneZ! Thanks Keith for this design and assembly instructions. It's printing really well after tuning a bit and retightening everything. This is my first 3d printer and I learned a LOT in the process of building it. I would definitely recommend this design.

    A couple challenges I experienced:
    1) I sent the STL files off to an out of state friend who printed the parts and shipped them to me. The misc-parts-blk.skp file was not present in the STLs and I ended up making a few parts out of wood and zip ties until the printer was functional enough to print out the missing pieces.

    2) The bill of materials does not include a good number of the fasteners. I would read ahead in the instructions and make a list of the screws needed and buy them at the hardware store (US, metric isn't well stocked always). Then as soon as I resumed building it I would find out a couple more that I had missed or weren't explicitly listed. There were many hardware store trips.

    3) The extruder spring needs to be really strong (springy?). I went through a few iterations before I got one that could push with enough force to consistently grip the filament.

    IMG_20171202_101629.jpg
     
  24. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    LOOKS GO
    LOOKS GOOD!

    I'm thinking about reviving the OneZ Kits after Jan and will be reworking it, and the BOM then. I agree and apologize that the BOM is incomplete as for screws.

    I'll be moving the PSU off the printer like you did also, but I'm planning on making it the spool holder also. I love the way you did your spool holder! Great looking!
    I've also fallen in love with a different board, the MKS Sbase and will redesign the board box.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. nspence

    nspence New
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    Thanks Keith! No worries about the screws, in retrospect I should have just ordered a large assortment of M3 and M5s. The power supply is actually a converted old computer ATX supply that I had lying around which is why it's not mounted. Thingiverse ftw for the spool holder :), but now I definitely want it on top of the PSU. I also went with separated electronics in a kit (arduino mega, ramps board, stepper drivers, lcd), don't ask how they are mounted in the brains box. I realized belatedly that RAMPS 1.4 doesn't support 1/32nd stepping, but at 1/16th and adjusted steps / mm in the firmware everything is working properly.
     
  26. Christian Setla

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    I'm going to hang my head in shame here... my OneZi3 is still about 2/3rds of the way done.....<sigh> Yes, there were a small items missing in the BOM I had, and I got some bum parts from 3rd party suppliers (NOT Keith) but it's LIFE that has gotten in the way. I really do like this design, and I welcome the renewed interest from Keith on it.

    Regards

    Christian
     
  27. JustinTime

    JustinTime Veteran
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    I had built my whole printer that way. Everything was ghetto wood and replace by proper 3d printed parts when it was working. :D
     
  28. nspence

    nspence New
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    That's awesome! And a lot of work. Props to you for getting it done that way!

    Christian, life also made this build take the better part of a year. We had a new kiddo and they sure eat up all time and motivation for a while.
     
  29. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I particularly like the hue of orange filament you used nspence. What is it? Where can I get it?
     
  30. nspence

    nspence New
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    It is "Candy Red" from HH3dplastics.com: 1Kg PLA 1.75mm Candy Red - 8" Spool

    They're cheap and so far their filament hasn't given me any problems. A friend who has been in the 3d printing game for a few years now swears by these guys.
     

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