Hi Ryan I just wanted to say, that when I received my Ooznest 1500 X 1500 last month I was a bit shocked to see that it was a full "kit" so to speak and I thought oh no this is going to take me ages.

Needless to say I've took my time with it and have built up the mechanicals and I've loved every minute of it. it's like Meccano for 50 year olds very therapeutic, great kit and even greater instructions you can't go wrong.

Just the electronics to go next, that my business partner is tackling and put the bed in.

Also I have some software that I need to use with it called v-carve pro, does anyone know if it will work with the Ox, or will I need something else as well.

Well done Ryan, with this cracking piece of kit

Alan
Atherton Media

 

"It's ALIVE!" I was finally able to carve time out this weekend for assembly with my step-father. Amazing job on the instructions and labeling of parts. Only one problem came up with the labeling and it was more entertaining than anything else in that the X & Y cable chain Fixed Ends were swapped and my step-father probably spent 5 minutes looking like a monkey doing a math problem trying to figure out why the one he was holding wasn't looking like the picture in the manual (I had read it several times so knew what was wrong, but had to see how long it would take him). One small hiccup came up that was easily solved, none of the 2040 V-Slot was tapped, and the HUGE device is up and operational (1500mm x 1500mm laid out on my floor to test size didn't really do it justice), albeit with making drawings on paper so far (spindle still en-route). My kids are very entertained watching the thing move and draw.

That fast-decay setting that I saw mentioned for someone else in the thread, is there a downside to just doing it? I have tested out the calibration of all the axis' and they are spot on, but I did notice a little bit of jaggie in the circles that I have had it draw. I was going to play around with changing the micro-steps to 16 and 32, just to see what that brings to the table, but that fast-decay thing has me thinking. Which would be better in most hobbiest circumstances?

 

fast-decay will make the motors a little bit noiser, and is less efficient. However the DRV8825 driver used in the XPro can have trouble managing the current, particularly with increased microstepping and/or higher voltage. fast-decay helps;

I have some screen grabs from when I was testing with a current probe.

These are the current steps at 1/8th Stepping, 12v, AutoMixed Mode (Default), Nema 23 2.8A motor


This is what happens when things go wrong; 1/32 Stepping, 24v, AutoMIxed Mode

as you can see the driver is now completely failing to control the current during the increasing steps.

and how fast-decay helps; 1/32 stepping, 24v Fast-decay mode


a big improvement, but still not good enough current regulation to make 1/32 stepping worth while.

I think sticking with 1/8th Stepping, 12v supply, and enabling fast-decay, will give the most stable setup.

for comparison this what 1/32 stepping looks like using a (much) more expensive driver

 

Thanks for the reply Ryan, I'm glad it will work, it will justify the asking price for the software.

Also where would be the best place to ask for feed rates and tools/spindle speeds for cutting 3mm aluminium composite, and 3mm acrylic, I'm totally new at this and would like to know where there is any information like this.

 

Brilliant thanks Ryan. I fired her up checked all the axis and they are wired correctly, i noticed it sounds like it "creaks"a bit. So will probably check the eccentric screws in case a couple are too tight.

Alan

 

Heres the video of it working and the noise its making, im chuffed though that its working

Alan

 

Righto is that where you control the ouput power on the pots on controller?

Thanks
Alan

 

My new build sounded like that when I first ran some jogging commands. I found a couple of things that was causing it in my case. First being the kitchen table I had it sitting on {and pleasing the wife to no end} and the spoiler board were both vibrating like heck kind of making a sounding board like a guitar or violin and amplifying the motor vibrations. Second was I upped the mm/min for free move from what was in the back of the electronics assembly manual from {off of memory} 2500 to ~4500. That quieted the motor noise down immensely, even still on the table w/ spoiler in place, when it was transitioning to the next spot to cut. I am still waiting for delivery of my spindle, so I've only done "air cutting" and using a pen to draw out what would have been cut, which makes the motors noticeable at all as I imagine they aren't audible when really cutting {can't wait to find that out for real}.

Nate

 

thanks Grey, heres another video, it isn't cutting right and the depth is all over the place, we are just trying to work out how to set the settings in vcarve which is puzzling to me, all the different heights, above below material, z1 z2, etc, then to find th eright end mills for alicomposites and plastics etc

Thats a big help Nate thanks

 

I had exactly the same noise and rough movement. Tried loads of different options to fix, I was told to solder the jumpers on the board. Mine was resolved when the xPro was set to fast decay.

 

Thanks Ryan I'll try that

 

Righto we have done the fast decay, mod and everything is running a lot smoother now.

One other thing, I have been trying to source, single flute carbide router bits with a 1/4 inch shank, and I am not having any luck.

I have seen that I can buy 1/8 or 3/16 inch collets off the net for the de-Walt 26200 but the bits I can get which are 3mm 4mm or 6mm shafts so will the collets fit these, or am I just better getting a high speed spindle with metric collet.

Thanks
Alan

 

And another happy customer
1am and I just finished my build.
Amazing work with the manual and the seperated parts!
It was huge fun. Do you think a Kress 1050 should be working fine (besides the mount)?
It weights less and seems to have better specs than the Dewalt.
This weekend I will start with the Arduino Controller and see if I can get the motors running!

Keep up the good work!

 

I've been trying to find information about "fast decay" and how to enable it on xPro v2. Also found a post that states that xPro v2 automatically switches between fast and slow decay modes. Can somebody help?

 

we soldered the jumpers across on the back for fast decay, the motor make a wierd noise after this was done but was advised by Ryan that all was ok.

we now have a different problem we have upgraded the spindle to an 800watt one with separate speed controller it has 3 collets for 2, 4, and 6 mm which is what we wanted, but now the problem is the machine stops after 2 or 3 minutes and lights a yellow light up on the xpro just above the 2 green ones where it says SPL, is this a warning of overheating or something or communication failiure.

tia

Alan

 

Thats what we were thinking as we have routed the cabling in with the usb will test more tomorrow.

Thanks
Alan

 

well tried a different USB lead and left it out of the trunking, and its working fine now, no more crashing, we also had a usb to usb extender which used a cat 5 cable in between but that didn't work as we were thinking as a shielded pair might pick up less interference.

another couple of issues we could do with getting a bit more height on the Z axis, what would be the best way to do this longer Z axis end plates (and has anyone done any) or drop the bed somehow, we would like about another 25mm so that we can make a vacuum bed for the machine.

Still chuffed to bits with this machine though Ryan, especially now i can see some fruits of my labour.

Alan

 

That's a great work! I would need an information about the screws of this machine. I ordered the screws in France (I'm french) except the M5 15mm screws cause I can't find it in that dimension and I was wondering if it was a problem if I use 14 or 16mm screws instead?
I would be really grateful if anyone could advise me on this^^

 

No problems using 14 or 16mm screws

 

Thank you for that answer!