Okay, i misunderstood then. Thanks

 

Ok - I have a major issue with my Lead. I got the machine fully assembled and wired. One set of nut blocks on my Y2 Axis seems to be considerably undersized. It took a good bit of force to thread the lead screw but I saw comments previously that this could be an issue. Well the motor will not turn that axis at all. I thought maybe I installed them wrong. I disassembled that side and took out the nut blocks to find one had cracked across the center hole. Was it a bad set of blocks and should I just order new ones?

 

I had used some dry silicone on the first one. All of them are fine except the one that cracked. Super fast response from support and a replacement is on the way.

 

Ok, next issue. My new nut blocks will be here tomorrow (excitement overload). In the meantime I have a single nut block on the Y2 axis just to test the motion. X Axis is fine. Z axis was inverted so I switched it in the motion control software - working as expected - Y axis is a whole different story. One motor trams forward and the Y2 trams backwards. I have double checked and triple checked the wiring - no luck. I took the black box partially apart to ensure the mirror Y jumpers were set correctly (they are both on the center jumper positions. I'm sure it's as simple as reversing a set of wires on the Y2 axis but I don't know which ones. I have the high torque NEMA 23s. Any pointing in the right direction would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks gentlemen. I'll give it a shot tonight.

 

Reversing the wires fixed it. New nut block installed. Just finished moving it around and ran a successful homing cycle. Thanks again for the assistance. Now I just need to finish my table then cut my waste board. Just too **** hot outside - still at 116 degrees.

 

Ordered my lead 1010 machine last month, finally finished my CNC table and am excited/getting ready to get started on my build. I think i have 2 questions

* After some extensive searching and information overload, is it possible to increase the z axis travel on the lead 1010 without introducing issues with flex/twist/torsion in any other axis and what not? I apologize if this is a frequent question. Fell down the rabbit hole for a few hours and read quite a bit. I think to start, 2 inches of travel won't be a problem with a 1/2 inch waste board but was looking to use 3/4inch with t-tracks but now i don't want to sacrifice any of the work piece height range.

* Around building the waste board, I wanted to add t-tracks to the waste board but didn't realize how the waste board sits on top of the frame. I think i'll be fine with screwing the work piece to the waste board in the mean time but was wondering how others go about securing their work piece without sacrificing z axis travel with a lead 1010 (other than screwing to waste board)

 

Masking tape on workpiece and spoiler board - superglue between the masking tape.
Alex.

 

I'll be doing my waste board this weekend. I plan on using a grid pattern of 1/4 nuts (still undecided on spacing - probably every 2 inches.

 

So 1/2 inch waste board with 1/4 inch tall nuts to allow for surfacing of the spoil board i take it?

 

1/2 inch waste board - the T nuts are 5/16 total height - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSVU3WF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. My plan is to lay 2 layers the waste board on the cnc and find the 4 corner maximum points for the router with a 3/4 inch bit (since the barrel bottoms are 3/4. Then divide the remainder up equally as close to 2 inches as possible. Clamp both pieces down to the frame and let the CNC cut the barrel and the hole using a 1/4 inch bit. I can then manually do the outer most row beyond the limits by hand drilling. Insert the T-nuts, flip the board over and install.

 

When you say 2 layers, are you saying an inch in total thickness for your waste board (two 1/2 inch mdf boards stacked on top of each other)? Or is that stacking 2 layers just so you can cut holes via CNC and have one layer of 1/2 inch MDF as your waste board?

Rest of it sounds good. I think i may follow something along your approach and abandon the t-tracks. I didn't know if i could just swap out the beam that the router rides on the z axis to be a bit taller/longer in order to gain more z axis travel.

 

Just stacking 2 so when I plunge the holes through for the nuts it won't go into the CNC itself. Just one piece mounted.

 

Ah ok got it, thanks for the clarification. I think i like your approach so will probably follow suit. thanks again.

 

OK - created a file for putting t nuts on my spoilboard. First I homed the machine and used a 15 degree v bit to mark the point. I then moved the X axis to the opposite side and marked that point - moved the Y and did the same thing on the other end. Using V Carve Pro I set the circles one inch inside the max boundaries. Set the tool paths to cut the inset for the t-nut as well as the hole. Save the gcode from vcarve using the grbl inch post processor. Open the file in openbuilds controller. Select check size - it moves to the X axis then moves forward on the Y and immediately hits the limit switch. Since the circles are inside the max boundaries of the machine I'm stumped. On the setup in VCarve I have the start in the front left where the machine homes - since I have set the X and Y to zero at the homing cycle and then set the Z I don't see why it is moving forward at all. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

Figured it out. Had to reverse Y and reset the homing direction.

 

It's finally complete. I'm working in a small space (1 car garage) so everything has to have multiple purposes. I made a very sturdy base so I can store my heavier tools out of the way. Planer, sanders etc). Used 2 x 6 construction lumber milled to 1 1/4 x 5 for the base box as well as the top box except for the two from cross members which are milled 2 x 4s to let me raise the two drawers and give a bit more clearance underneath. The uprights are 4 x 4s milled to 3 x 3. Used heavy duty workbench bolt on the bottom joints making this thing rock solid. Wires from the controller that don't run through the cable organizer run under the table. Frame is 0 x 40 and top is 48 x 48. The overhang on each side allow for bump protection of the motors and electronics. I am extremely happy with the way it came out.

 

Max travel speed of the LEAD CNC? I've mounted a JTech laser on my LEAD this weekend and have been pretty happy with the results. I've been trying to figure out how fast I can push things and it seems to top out on usability at 100 in/min maybe a bit higher. Does this seem about right?

 

I'm interesting in buying/building this kit. My current CNC is limited to 500x600mm and will only run at 1800mm/min. I am after a machine that is closer to 1000x1000mm capable of at least 4000mm/min.

I have a few questions:
Would it be difficult to modify the LEAD CNC design to use 12mm 5 start lead screws and then lengthen the X and Y by 300mm to get an actual cutting area of 1000mm x 1000mm? I think 1000mm 8mm lead screw would whip too much and limit the speed.

What's the normal operating speed of your LEAD builds? I know there are a lot of factors that determine this including the controller. Does anyone get 4000mm/min and if so was this "out of the box" or did you have to modify it?

If I get the LEAD kit including electronics shipped to New Zealand can I just plug it into a normal 230V power source?

Thanks,
Allistar.

 

Came here to post another question, but realized i competely forgot to respond to this!

Ill keep the wire shielding in mind for sure. As far as zeroing, i do everything from bottom left also. Havent had any issues thus far and seems to not cause any issues.


As far as what I came to ask....are there any plans to have a mount made that works with the makita router? A lot of people prefer the makita of the dewalt but openbuilds only offers a mount for the dewalt. What are the chances we can get a makita mount for the lead?

I am using a 3d printed spacing ring to use for the makita that another memeber here created and seems to work well, but hard to tell if it is creating some of my tramming woes...it definitely isnt helping.