Hi, I have a SPAM equipped with a BlackBox controller, which replaced a faulty xPro v5. I'm having issues with the movement of the gantry (Y and Y2 axes), as when changing direction, the gantry moves sideways at first, and then normalizes its movement. It's like the motors were out of sync or something. I have thoroughly checked the mechanics on both Y and Y2 axes and found no apparent issues. The machine is squared. The lead-screws have the right tension Bearings are ok and seated in place Couplers and lock collars also tighten Nut blocks are tighten following CNC3D instructions. I can easily turn the lead-screws by hand (machine turned off), both offer the same resistance and the gantry moves without issues. More over, the Y and Y2 motors' cables run alone, as opposed to the X and Z motors which run parallel in the drag chain, yet they do not have any issues but the Y does At this point I don't know whether this is a controller issue or something I'm overlooking mechanically, or what. Here's a short video I made showing the problem. Does anyone know where the issue may lie? Assistance much appreciated I'm also attaching my GRBL config
On further review, it turns out that the y motor is erratically changing spinning direction. Check the video
1) Dial down acceleration and Max Rate values - the vendor you mention is known for supplying high inductance motors. 2) Also see docs:blackbox:faq-identify-motor-coils [OpenBuilds Documentation] Also note, your actions in the first video: never spin motors by hand - a motor spun by hand (even slowly) acts as a generator and can backfeed and damage your drivers. Disconnect motors from controller before spinning by hand
Thanks Peter, I'll look into your indications. Dully noted not to spin the motors when connected to the controller!
What was the symptoms of your 3x failed xPros by the way - just want to get some history based on the influx of questions from you. Regardless of the vendor - one might have been a factory issue, but three failures may point to something related to either how you set up or use controllers - or perhaps some other components like a low quality power supply involved etc. Already know the motors you have will be slow high inductance motors but lets see what else is in play
Peter, I appreciate you replying swiftly to my questions, I really do. Regarding the "influx" of questions, or me spamming the forum, as you described the 4 threads I've started: Isn't the purpose of a forum to compartmentalize questions or support requests so that other users can benefit from them? The reason I opened a thread in the Controller subforum, while having this one open, was because after the latest test I could confidently discard mechanical issues. I'd have rather close this thread and keep the other one open as it is more specific. Anyway... It does not sit well on me that you dismissed the microstepping jumper question, just because you assumed something. I do not intend to change the microstepping config, nor I think my current issue is related to it. But as an owner of your product I want to understand, and or, be capable of configuring it as I see fit, within the capabilities/specifications of the product of course. I have attached a pic of my unit where, as per the images in the documentation, the jumpers should be. Is it that they are on the opposite side of the board? If it's so, why the diagram of the jumpers' position is there, where there are no jumpers? Regarding the xpro units, I spent almost 3 months troubleshooting the issues with the manufacturer to no avail, so I have no intention to spend more time on them. If you want, I can send you links to the +1 hours of edited videos where I go through the issues, and their troubleshooting. Their issues were around faulty drivers btw Regarding my setup, I have attached my GRBL settings on the first post. I don't understand what do you mean by "how I use the controller" though. The power supply is a 350W original Meanwell and the motors are their 2.45 N/m - 3A version. Basically all components were supplied by B3D. I'm also attaching the motor's spec sheet. Regarding the wiring: Each motor connects to a 4 conductor extension cable (that share the same wire colors) The cable go into the Control Box via GX14 connector, then into the controller. I have successfully identified the bobbins on each motor, and have checked each and all wires for continuity from the motor to the controller. All 4 motors are wired in the exact same fashion. I am going to try your suggestions of dialing down the Max rate and Acceleration settings. If that doesn't work, I'm going to bypass the GX connector and plug the extension cable directly into the controller
Very much looks like a bad connection OR you just need to turn the current up a bit on your drivers. should be about 1/2 way on the pots from factory, try 3/4 toward full. After a short run see if the motors get hot. Cheers Gary
The solder jumpers are visible in your photo Learn more here How to Work with Jumper Pads and PCB Traces - learn.sparkfun.com Note we still don't recommend you change it. Increased microstepping lowers torque. That's why is was curious Do try acceleration / max rate and also fresh (use new wire) - direct (bypass the GX16s) wiring
I think one of those Y motors is not running at all. The righthand one. I would remove the nutblocks and check for both motors running during a Y jog
are they both doing that, or just the one? (I would remove the nutblocks to avoid any further damage to the linear bearings.) at this point I would remove all wires from the cable chains and keep them apart (I would use foam spacers as i have a lot of foam about 2 inches thick). If all works correctly after this then we know it is interference. This is more common with X and Z which run onto the gantry together but I don't know where your cables run. High currents in wires can very easily cause EMI in other wires, so motor wires are always prime suspects. Remember. every wire is a transmitter AND every wire is a receiver. Also check the jumpers in the BB that select pairing the Y drivers, and by that I mean pull them off and put them back to make sure they are making proper contact. Also study the solder joints with a loupe to make sure they are not dry joints.
No intention to change it, even less now that I learned that the board has that kind of jumpers. I expected typical jumpers, those that can be changed by hand.
Apparently the issue is solved. Not completely sure what single thing did the trick, or if both things contributed. I bypassed the GX connector on the right motor I lowered the Max Rate to 2500 and the Max Acc to 250. I did this with all axes I say apparently just because the past 3 months have eroded my confidence . But everything is working fine now. I removed all motors' GX connectors and went straight into the controller. (I just wanted to have a modular control box, but I prefer that it actually works). Thanks to all
