Considering I don't see any kind of encoder, they must be using a servo technique to manage position. They run to the end, reset, and keep track from there. This makes keeping track of motor pulses is critical. I have a printer that had behaved very well until yesterday. I had a print offset itself by 3" (75mm). I rebooted the printer, deleted all instances of the part file, and went through a lengthy diagnostics to ensure it was random. Everything seems okay again. As to overheating, the print just started, so that shouldn't be an issue; the environment is 20*C (70*F), so that is well within acceptable. There are printers that have quirks in this regard. Worst case was a printer that would print on the edge of the plate where every layer's max extent was at the edge of the plate. The whole print was "skewed". That tells me there is little confirming position other than pulse counting on the steppers.
does anyone know how to interface with that screen? form what i found, im pretty sure that it has an SPI interface, and resistive touch. to me, there isnt enough pins for that much info coming out of it. I see there is a small chip on board, the writing is: "jaan s022 .236" Any Ideas?
I found a data sheet for the screen, not the board, i dont know enough to decipher it, but here it is: PT0242432T-C402-J Ver.A.pdf
Hi,how are you, Did you have the ida files configuration por .hex of cube pro yet? if you have it please send me, Best regards!
This is a hopeful query to a Very Old Thread! Oderbang - are you still out there? If so, I would like to ask if you happen to have a surplus Cube3/Ekocycle 3 motherboard laying around since converting to a Rumba board. I have a bricked motherboard I would like to replace. Anyone else??? TIA, John in N Texas
@loco -- Curious, from your photos: Did you previously modify the print head on your Cube? There was a post a while ago which described drilling and tapping the heater block and installing a standard throat tube and nozzle -- did you do that? Do you plan to post a "how-to step by step" for your conversion? A lot of us would love to see that!
I will put some pictures. Step by step but I don't want to do any hole I will install a new blowen whit a volcano
Hello everyone, is anyone still around? i just wanted to ask if the rep rap conversion has a self level option, my cube printer is a pain, it stops reading the chip mid print and cancels it, could i solder the chip to the contacts? will it kill the chip? i cant afford an original cardridge 60 usd 20x1 on my local currency, and i want to make prosthetics for people that can't afford one, i have other 2 printers but i can't make them work. A robo 3d and a geeetech g2s pro. Any help is welcome. thanks!
@jack123529 Have you looked into Tomuro's chip programmer? This will allow you to "refill" your current cartridge as well change the filament type/color. See Tomuro's hacking blog - Find solution for hidden problem
yes, i found that it would be the best option, but now i got the cube working perfectly on aftermarket PLA, i will use it exclusively for that since its way too slow for printing, i get faster results on the ROBO3D, that one was working fine until i ran out of ABS now i need to fix some layer shifting issues and temp. thanks for the info, i didn't think i would get an answer by now.
Jack, you can solder the chip to the wires without issue. If you are using an aftermarket hub, yes, they still get disconnects from the motion that provide only 30 seconds to correct. No reason to be sitting by the printer all that time. I found the original cartridge cases to work much better. Have not had any disconnects using that solution. If you need parts to make that ReCube wand, let me know. I can certainly help get you up and running to support your cause.
Thank you! i'm still in process of getting permits to do give out prosthetics, since i don't have a medical degree i can't legally give them out or i could get sued and i would like to have 4 printers running in case one fails, i only have a cube running now, the robo3d is having issues and i have a geeetech gs2 i can't make work and a tevo tarantula with missing parts. I'm in mexico just across the border from donna texas like a 10 minute drive from home, i paused the project because my desktop gpu died and i can't use solidwoks to model the hands and we are currently going thru a heatwave +40° celcius and i don't have an air conditioner in the room where i have the printers and i gets very hot in there. I'm just a mess right now but i hope i can fix it soon. Again thank you for your help!
Good day, the machine was very good. I would also like to change my cube to reprap or run marlin. Could you make a tutorial to do it? What materials and electronics did you use? were you able to reuse the lcd screen? and approximate project costs?
Im at this point of the build. I am using an old ender 3 Pro board to test out the first steps (X/Y/Z/Fans) and it seems that the motors only move in a positive direction. My guess is I will have to inverse. I am having a bit of trouble with the 8 pin connector and would love a little more clarity from all you very smart people. I have been tinkering with 3D printers for only 6mo, but have found myself digging deep for this project. I have it wired up and initial tests make me hopeful. Any assistance is appreciated
Hello everyone. I am bringing back the thread as i have been in a dead end... The screen of my cube 3 failed, and it no longer functions properly. The part is labeled as 3D Systems DISPLAY SCREEN 390125-00. Is there any compatible LCD or Resistive film? I could resolder the film if needed or mod the connection. The FPC connector seems to be a 15pin FPC. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hello, I know this printer is old and considered obsolete, but I'm trying to resurrect a couple for the Shop/CAD class I teach. We have all PLA chips and I want to get several of them converted to ABS and INF. I want to make these available for students to check-out/borrow for use at home. (Face it these are noisy printers) Does anyone have access to ReCube Pro? I can't get any response from Tomuro or others about getting it. I'm willing to donate to the cause...
I'd say bad bed adhesion. Instead of using glue, use masking tape instead. I use the older type masking tape... not blue or green. When I don't use it the parts lift off the bed and it looks similar to these pics.
I have recently started on my own converstion of the Cube 3, and have been following this forum for my conversion. It has been super helpful but, I got to the point of wiring my hotend and dont know what resister to use for the thermastat.
