I am building an own DIY CNC. I am somewhat versed in 3D printers so the leap is not that big. I was planning to use a cheap router motor kit from aliexpress for 300 W. It came with its own power supply. Until now I did not look it too closely, just at the collar for adapting the Z-carrier. Now I, however, took the first look at the motor and power supply. The power supply does not have a dedicated PE-connector for 220V, is it ok to connect it to the metal casing anyway? Secondly, there is a potentiometer for adjusting the rpm. I assume it is not the whole 300W going through it? Somewhere, I heard about people connecting CNC shield to steer the rpm. Is there any info about that? I guess one needs to measure the voltage and it's going variation going through the potentiometer? I am somewhat concerned about the safety issues here...On the other hand I want to take a cheap first trial in CNC:ing but not burn the house in process...
300w is pretty anemic. I don't know what you plan to cut with it but if it is 5mm foam board than it's fine but anything else you may not be happy with your choice. As for burning down the house, since I don't know what kind of setup the router is (maybe a link to it?) I can't make a judgment on the safety of the setup.
It's this one: https://m.de.aliexpress.com/item/40...tedetail&spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.32984c4djursjk Yeah well 300 W is moderate but it is still more than Dremel (I aped my setup from Dremel CNC in Youtube, improving few bits and pieces to my liking) - it should do for starters...
I can't tell if the 300W goes through the potentiometer. The best way is to check it with a Volt meter. If it shows full voltage on the two outside terminals of the potentiometer it could be that is seeing 300W. You can also run it for a minute or two and see it it get warm.
I wouldnt spend my time setting that one up, more like 50w before they stall. Invest in a Router - you wouldn't want to frustrate yourself out of taking this awesome hobby further. That said you already bought it so... Speed control: the potentiometer sets the PWM duty cycle of an onboard output mosfet. There is a 0-10v control signal input on the terminals too, you can wire it to a BlackBox docs:blackbox:connect-vfd [OpenBuilds Documentation] On some of those you have to disconnect the potentiometer to switch it to accepting the 0-10v input Then sell it onward on ebay/craigslist when you get a better spindle
Yeah, I think you are right on that. This looks notoriously similar to mine and it says that it is not galvanic isolated (whatever he means with that), but I assume the problem is not fixed by connecting the third wire on the case: I did not realize that you can get Makita RT0700C as cheap as 105 EUR, with quite a few positive reviews for the DIYs - so I do not know what the h3ll I was thinking - (well I initially just clicked the stuff together on aliexpress and started my long wait...) I can spare constructing an additional enclosure for the Power Unit and all the additional hassle... The good thing about cheap stuff is that once you chunk it, it was not such a big loss...
