Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

Some of the things that I have done to my 1510 Workbee Installed Linear rails and bearing blocks with drawings. Installed Ops console Made conversion plates for extruded aluminum to casters Extended z axis travel by a couple inches with steel plates. As of now in the process of installing Lead screws across the 1500mm length.

Machine based on Sphinx 55 built with linear rails.

Heavily upgrading my 1200x500 Shapeoko 2... ...er, wait, scratch that... Building an all new machine, roughly the same size, that should be more rigid than a Shapeoko 3!

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

Create a ball screw carrier with out BF BK bearing blocks.

My take on a non affordable slider.

Remix of the Prusa i3 Bear with added IDEX

This project shows how to use Openbuilds Vv slot extrusions and wheels to retrofit a Lulzbot Taz 4 or 5 printer. These modifications improve layer consistency, eliminate nozzle and bed sag, and allow for larger toolhead mounting. Project updates and newer accessory files may be located at http://www.thingiverse.com/piercet/designs

Need to build a machine that accurately positions objects for processing by a computer vision algorithm? Here is an example of a machine that does that for a ball trajectory application. The black anodized V-rails work well for applications in optics and imaging where the machine needs to stay out of the limelight.

ANOTHER OX!~ Huge Thanks to Marc Carew and Open Builds. The primary reason I am building this CNC mill is to aid in my homemade snowboard creation. I am going to try and document as much of everything as I can and post it here to help others going a similar route. I know from past projects that taking the time to document each step can be tedious when you want to charge ahead but I will try! I hoping to get feedback on my design choices and set up as I am a complete newbie to CNC.

DIY scratch build consisting of gas pipe, skate bearings, 12mm birch, 3/4 maple v-core ply, Nema 23's, and arduino and CNC shield with DRV8825's.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet