This is my journey from a dream machine to a practical (for me) machine. This is a Cartesian style frame that can change tool heads quickly. The first version will have milling and 3D printing tool heads. Later on I'll add a drag knife tool head.

Cross-beam Cartesian 3d printer with dual master/slave lightweight fiberglass drive shafts, BMG style extruder with Bowden (Capricorn) tubing. Hot end is Creality Ender 3 style with two fans and BLTouch for autoleveling. Filament runout sensor is also included.

F-Ender-Plus its based on the Ender 3 Pro, but improved: CR-10 hotend, double gear extruder, double z-axis motor, bltouch incorporated, hotbed leveling improved strings kit. Most made using local vendor parts, and still I'm increasing my knowledge of how get better 3D printings by calibrating motors steps, leveling the hotbed and z-axis; using a 3mm thick glass...

The C-Beam Prefab Untitled is designed as the cartesian compliment to the C-Beam XL. With the exception of requiring a couple more 1000mm C-Beams and lead screws, the build requires a minimum of additional parts. The primary intention of the build is to maximize the cutting envelope while still staying within the sweet spot for C-beam rigidity. This design can easily be modified and allows for further custom structural components to be cut with the initial build platform.

This is an all metal build using OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails to produce a high quality and cost effective 3D printer. The printer is designed to be scalable for your desired build area and can utilize high quality hotends with 16mm groove mounts such as E3D.

A desktop Cartesian CNC router

Here are the instructions to build the Beeline custom CNC router table.

This started as an attempt to learn to weld and quickly took on a life of its own.

This is basically a Sphinx variant with few changes of my own...hope it'll work.

Another Cartesian style build with parts from the UK, US & China.

An open source 3D printer design with a sturdy V-Slot frame

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!

This is a rework of a previous build I did on here, a mostly printed cartesian CNC. Initially intended to just be an update to that, but so many things changed including the linear motion and every single part has been modified significantly that I felt as though it deserved a whole new build.

PeeNaPle_V1.4b is a BoB controller board for 3D Printers, CnC and cartesian machine, using the latest Teensy_4.1

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

My DIY 3D Printer build which is similar to an i3 style printer. This is a fully documented step-by-step build with videos.

OneZ gets it's name from it's most unique feature - only motor for the Z axis while maintaining the stability of two bearing guides for the Z axis. Reduction to one Z motor eliminates need for auto bed leveling.

The Tiger Paw will be a 1000mm X 500mm Cartesian style CNC with the Minimill attached to the end. It is named the D&R Tiger Paw because my son, Daniel, and myself, Richard, will put this Tiger strong and fast machine together. Our goal is to have a Tiger strong build with a Paw print that wouldn’t take up a huge amount of space in our garage.

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

Openbuilds 1050 Sphinx. Thank you to Mark Carew for trading me a set of plates for a spindle and PSU I was not using. Mark is a champ!

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

Trying to build a machine of atleast 4x4ft working area. Work is in progress, hope to finish it soon

DIY scratch build consisting of gas pipe, skate bearings, 12mm birch, 3/4 maple v-core ply, Nema 23's, and arduino and CNC shield with DRV8825's.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

My attempt at a Desktop CNC using C-Beam and Open-Rail with Steel Wheel bearings and LeadScrew Drive.

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

This is my first CNC build. As per the norm, I went in with months of research, planning, and resource gathering tied neatly together with a solid plan. As the path went on, the plan continued to change to accommodate issues I hadn't counted on. But, at the end of the road, the project reached completion, and I learned a ton along the way!

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

I'm working on a cartesian cnc router for my school research project

My CNC Router design and inspiration came from the Routy CNC project. I modified some of the aspects of the Routy build, but left the original XY dimensions intact. The build has been very enjoyable thus far and am nearing completion of all wiring in preparation for my first test run!

Mid range build.

The C-Beam Evolution is an evolving machine. The MkII is inspired by Kyo's C-Beam Spinx but currently uses my own design of plates made of 8mm acrylic (X-axis ends) and 6mm polycarbonate (Y axis ends). The plates were made on the MkI but I hope to be able to make 6mm aluminium plates on the MkII for the MkIII.

A wonky build to eliminate slop on a long Z axis

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

In Greek mythology, Talos (/ˈteɪlɒs/;[1] Greek: Τάλως, Talōs) was a giant man of bronze made by Hephaestus (the Greek god of fire, metalworking, craftsmen and blacksmiths) who protected Europa in Crete from pirates and invaders. He circled the island's shores three times daily.

This build is inspired by the Lulzbot Taz printers and makes use of the new OpenBuilds C-Beam

This is going to be a more or less detailed how to build BetterBot. Pictures and more (decent) text are to be added.

This is a 1500 X 1500 Stainless OX kit build, by a cnc novice. It is the first cnc machine i have ovned and build I got this kit from http://makersupplies.dk/20-ox-cnc-kits

Pretty much a straight OPENBUILDS OX that slowly getting some modifications.

OX metal build from an noob

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

Over 840 parts. Of whom around 450 are screws and nuts, more than 100 parts are printed on a 3D printer, the frame consists of about 60 components. There is nearly 40 electrical components connected with tens of meters of wires, most of them sleeved.

1000mm x 1500mm OX router using Openbuilds parts and plates by Chris Laidlaw

Square shaped OX for doing general purpose engraving and cutting into wood, acrylic, and aluminum.

A Laut3k derivative that goes for volume and large number of print materials at the same time. Using OpenBuild linear motion systems to get away from belt drives.

Out with the Old in with the New. Trying to build a nice clean setup that myself and my sons can use and enjoy.

The STEAM Crane 3d printer uses the new C-Beam linear rail. It is being developed for an after school / summer camp program for kids. All of the electronics are housed in the base and the wiring is routed down the channels of the c-beam. This is done to contain as much of the loose wiring as possible, hopefully keeping it safer for kids.

A fully aluminium printer made from off the shelf components, no printed parts.

This is my 1st submission to openbuilds.com and my 1st venture into building a 3D Printer. The Phoenix 3d Printer is a kit from Ez3D, a company based out of Colorado, started and backed by successful Kick-starter and IndieGogo campaigns. The Phoenix 3d Printer kit is currently backlogged 10 to 12 weeks which means quite a wait. I will be chronicling my experience with this kit as I get it done.

Simple cartesian style CNC. Uses ACME screws for all 3 axes, 20x40 v-slots and should have 50cm x 50cm x 50cm work volume.

Cartesian Printer, 200mm x 200mm x 380mm build area, enclosed, belt and pinion movement, heated bed, Raspberry Pi, Pi Cam, OctoPrint

My first custom build, using vslot rails for Z and Y and 8mm rails for X. Currently printing parts for this using my Prusa I3. The build volume will be roughly 300mm^3, X and Y are belt driven with 8mm acme lead screws for Z. Will be uploading more info shortly as i continue to build the printer.