Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

I built the original machine using plywood plates, and always intended to upgrade those parts to more durable ones. I decided to go with acetal as it's a lot easier to cut than aluminium. I used fusion 360 to model and rebuild the original machine. Once I have assembled everything and feel confident it all works I will release the plate designs here.

Somewhat Simple Lead screw conversion for an OX CNC.

This is my first public build. Please be kind. We upgraded our C-Beam to the C-Cbeam X-Large. I want to give special thanks to Moag and the OpenBuilds team for making this happen.

Upgrade your Minimill with an off-set Z Axis Motor

Using most of the parts of the MiniMill, and adding a few other parts (cost < $200), transforms the MiniMill into a very capable machine. Final build area as shown is 10.25" x 16". With a custom Y-plate, I will take it to 10.25" x 20-24".

So we have new plates, stronger motors, belt drive reduction, but what should we do with them? In this article you might find the answer you were looking for as we took an “old” C-Beam machine and started to upgrade the X/Z body and added more torque and precision to the Z-axis.

Upgraded Z-axis for Sphinx-style CNC using ball screws and linear rails.

Ball screw drive, linear rail CNC Kit

My First major improvement was changing the controller to a Acorn board. I loved the way a dedicated userinterface was speeding up my workflow. Next project my Y Axis. On Aliexpress I ordered a couple of 16mm ballscrews and some lineair rail. Before I took my gantry off I quickly made some aluminium profiles to fit my carriages. Withouth any doubt these improvements where worth it

Another (R)OX CNC something like build, in French please ! Pics Heavy !

This is a pure cbeam build to maximize envelope and rigidity. All the parts used are available from open builds.

My goals for this build were to eliminate slop and flex while also allowing easy serviceability.

Simple upgrade of the Y axis on a Cbeam sphinx from 500mm to 1000mm.

F-Ender-Plus its based on the Ender 3 Pro, but improved: CR-10 hotend, double gear extruder, double z-axis motor, bltouch incorporated, hotbed leveling improved strings kit. Most made using local vendor parts, and still I'm increasing my knowledge of how get better 3D printings by calibrating motors steps, leveling the hotbed and z-axis; using a 3mm thick glass...

Cheap chinese K40 laser upgrades, including 60x30cm working area, MKS or SKR controllerboard (smoothieware or marlin, not yet decided.) Light, psu and a bit more :)

This is a lead 1010 build that I wanted to have a little fun with. I purchased the whole Lead 1010 kit, and felt like studying a few shortcomings of the original to see if I can improve it or just have some fun with it.

Replaced the original Z-axis for a shapeoko with a c-beam upgrade. This upgrade required a nema 17 mount and a quiet spindle mount I printed with a 3D printer.

Z-Axis upgrade with linear rails, SFU1204 Ball Screw and full aluminium construction.

This is a major redesign to the Z-axis of an otherwise stock Shapeoko 2.

Using criticall OpenBuilds components to upgrade the rigidity and reliability of an X-Carve 1000mm build.

long overdue overhaul of 1000 x 1000 machine

Currently completely imaginary