After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

Simple design with a large build volume - 450x450x450

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

This project is focused on developing a low-cost, portable and open-source FDM 3D Printer.

A stout 3D printer build with the hopes of being able to serve as a light mill (PCB) and laser engraver

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

A beefed up modification of the TrueUp Kit project

A version of TrueUp using linear bearings/rods for the Z axis. This required enough modification to make a separate OpenBuilds project to avoid confusion for DIYers.

A simplified version of the TrueUp LZ. Designed for classrooms and students

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

tronxy x3 like

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

Video on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCTbLZ2_m-w&t=36s

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

In-progress 500x500x1800

Dirt cheap build.

A posi-drive leveling printer in 300x300x380mm format that easily breaks down for suitcase size shipping.

A 200mm x 300mm x 200mm workhorse that never needs leveling due to Posi-Drive Leveling design.

Cartesian type 3d printer build

How to build an Independent Dual EXtruder (IDEX) 3D printer from OpenBuilds parts.

Tough 3D Printer using OpenBuilds Parts!

Mini Additive Manufacturing Printer by Chris Scholl

a dual extruder build using direct drive for flexible filaments

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

Stabilus 3d Large Format Printer Kit

Functional real-world 3D printer build with RM2-2RS bearings in routed V grooves on phenolic resin rails (lab countertop scraps) and NSK 25mm linear rails/trucks.

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!

Prusa mini inspired 3d printer

A framing design for cantilever style printers

I decided to start designing this printer, this will be my solution for a more rugged printer that you can use as workhorses...

We are introducing the Cairo Mini 3d-printer! It’s a DIY fully Open-source Reproducible 20x20cm 3d-printer. The original goal of the Cairo Mini 3d-printer is to create a low-cost 3d-printer below 220$(3500 LE). That anyone can build with ease.

We are introducing the Cairo30 3d-printer! It’s our new premium creature with no compromises! The Cairo30 3d-printer is the culmination of our accumulated years of experience designing and producing open-source CNC machines kits.

F-Ender-Plus its based on the Ender 3 Pro, but improved: CR-10 hotend, double gear extruder, double z-axis motor, bltouch incorporated, hotbed leveling improved strings kit. Most made using local vendor parts, and still I'm increasing my knowledge of how get better 3D printings by calibrating motors steps, leveling the hotbed and z-axis; using a 3mm thick glass...