F-Ender-Plus its based on the Ender 3 Pro, but improved: CR-10 hotend, double gear extruder, double z-axis motor, bltouch incorporated, hotbed leveling improved strings kit. Most made using local vendor parts, and still I'm increasing my knowledge of how get better 3D printings by calibrating motors steps, leveling the hotbed and z-axis; using a 3mm thick glass...

Cross-beam Cartesian 3d printer with dual master/slave lightweight fiberglass drive shafts, BMG style extruder with Bowden (Capricorn) tubing. Hot end is Creality Ender 3 style with two fans and BLTouch for autoleveling. Filament runout sensor is also included.

While mimicing the frame platform of the popular Crealiy CR-10 and Ender series, the Vulcan MAX overcomes design weaknesses in both printers. Chief improvements are a more stable, rigid mounting of the Z frame and Z gantry.

BNC3D Signax + Voron = Sigron IDEX

This is the next version of Dash, now operating much closer to its potential. Please message me if you need anything, such as Simplify3D settings, material information, design intent etc. Since the Pack-and-Go zip file is fairly large (120mB), here is a link where it can be downloaded: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q3ygyo_tTrB4UYIV62_wtCSCbWuE3krT/view?usp=sharing Note: I use Solidworks 2022, acquired through their Solidworks for Makers program (check it out!). A super deal at $100/yr

A quiet, 8inx8in build area, Cartesian printer with permanently level bed. This is a compact, solid, inexpensive printer that will reliably print any type filament for thousands of hours while you sleep, fish, or play ball in the park.

A beefed up modification of the TrueUp Kit project

A framing design for cantilever style printers

We are introducing the Cairo30 3d-printer! It’s our new premium creature with no compromises! The Cairo30 3d-printer is the culmination of our accumulated years of experience designing and producing open-source CNC machines kits.

A lightweight, portable, accurate 3D Printer that has a good sized print area and small overall footprint that is easy to build, with easy to source components. The design is OpenSource allowing those with the capability to make their own parts get up and running.

Remix of the Prusa i3 Bear with added IDEX

This is an all metal build using OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails to produce a high quality and cost effective 3D printer. The printer is designed to be scalable for your desired build area and can utilize high quality hotends with 16mm groove mounts such as E3D.

We are introducing the Cairo Mini 3d-printer! It’s a DIY fully Open-source Reproducible 20x20cm 3d-printer. The original goal of the Cairo Mini 3d-printer is to create a low-cost 3d-printer below 220$(3500 LE). That anyone can build with ease.

3D printer with 7 drivers, compact, dual extruder, no CNC part. All Openbuilds and 3D printed part. This is purely experimental.

This is a heavily modified system based on the RatRig V-Cast. Lots of personal touches, and a LOT more to come!

Yet Another Openbuilds Printer, my version :-P

Upgrading printers for Synchronous Leveling

Tough 3D Printer using OpenBuilds Parts!

Stabilus 3d Large Format Printer Kit

I decided to start designing this printer, this will be my solution for a more rugged printer that you can use as workhorses...

Transformation of an OpenBuilds Mini Mill into a convertible 3D printer / CNC mill with interchangeable tooling. Maybe a bonus conversion TBD.

Prusa mini inspired 3d printer

Large 600mm x 350mm x 350mm Build Volume with lead screw driven motion. The printer build has a moving gantry and fixed heat bed. Open Source

An open source 3D printer design with a sturdy V-Slot frame

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

Below are the details of my build and a good story for those who read till the end. Sorry for the grammar

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

Functional real-world 3D printer build with RM2-2RS bearings in routed V grooves on phenolic resin rails (lab countertop scraps) and NSK 25mm linear rails/trucks.

The aim of this OpenBot build, was to make a 3d Printer that was easy to build with minimal tools and using of the shelve parts from Openbuilds.

Mini Additive Manufacturing Printer by Chris Scholl

a dual extruder build using direct drive for flexible filaments

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

A posi-drive leveling printer in 300x300x380mm format that easily breaks down for suitcase size shipping.

Contains a further modification to Creality's poor CR-10 design

Larger format FDM printer using C-Beam linear stages

A Prusa i3 design running on Open Build's mini V wheels

How to build an Independent Dual EXtruder (IDEX) 3D printer from OpenBuilds parts.

My DIY 3D Printer build which is similar to an i3 style printer. This is a fully documented step-by-step build with videos.

OneZ gets it's name from it's most unique feature - only motor for the Z axis while maintaining the stability of two bearing guides for the Z axis. Reduction to one Z motor eliminates need for auto bed leveling.

A version of TrueUp using linear bearings/rods for the Z axis. This required enough modification to make a separate OpenBuilds project to avoid confusion for DIYers.

Cartesian type 3d printer build

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

A 200mm x 300mm x 200mm workhorse that never needs leveling due to Posi-Drive Leveling design.

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

Dirt cheap build.

A stable and strong 3D printer made of 16mm MDF and machined on my OX.

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

tronxy x3 like

A 3D printer without belts, a print volume of 320x320x260mm, obviously the V-Slot as linear guide! and a maximum of printed pieces.

In-progress 500x500x1800

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer. My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

Video on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCTbLZ2_m-w&t=36s

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

Maximus Evolution : 380mm x 400mm XL 3D Printer

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

This is a modification I made to my Voxel Ox 3D Printer Z axis, which synchronizes the Z leadscrews via a shaft and helical gear transmission. It prevents the two Z leadscrew from getting out of adjustment relative to each other, and uses a single Z motor instead of two. This build is just documenting the specific changes I have made to the Z-axis, since the frame and other axes are still from the original Voxel Ox design.

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Roberta Clementine's first daughter printer Alice Clementine!

OKMI 3d Printer based on CoreXY

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

My goal is to upgrade the acrylic ANET A8 to all metal.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

A simplified version of the TrueUp LZ. Designed for classrooms and students

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

High quality e3d parts with a minimalist design

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

A stout 3D printer build with the hopes of being able to serve as a light mill (PCB) and laser engraver

A steel framed 3D printer using a similar design with my CNC Router.

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

This project is focused on developing a low-cost, portable and open-source FDM 3D Printer.

Portable, high-speed, low-cost advanced multi-tool desktop factory derived from LulzBot Taz and TazMega.

Mid range build.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

Large scale True 500x500x500 build volume 3D printer.

Simple design with a large build volume - 450x450x450

Concept for a Prusa i3 made from Cbeam Extrusion. X & Y using GT2 Belts, Z using Acme Screws Goal is to build a simple. and very Solid Printer Single Z Motor to keep the Z Screws in Sync. (Might require Geared Nema 17) 12" x 12" x 12" Build volume Nema 17's

In Greek mythology, Talos (/ˈteɪlɒs/;[1] Greek: Τάλως, Talōs) was a giant man of bronze made by Hephaestus (the Greek god of fire, metalworking, craftsmen and blacksmiths) who protected Europa in Crete from pirates and invaders. He circled the island's shores three times daily.

This build is inspired by the Lulzbot Taz printers and makes use of the new OpenBuilds C-Beam

in construction ! chassis vslot 80x20 & 20x20 & 60x80 (Z) home made plates with whells polycarbonate build volume environ, 750x300x200 2 ed3d v6 volcano nozzles 0.8mm & 0.6 + titan extrudeurs rumba bord + auto levelling ip camera home made heat bed aluminium 5mm + glass + heat air chamber 6 doors plexiglass......