Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

Using basic standard components, beams, motors, belt drive on x and y, z is a screw. Using Grbl Panel on Windows 10. Really basic router, had trouble getting the controller to turn on the router and set speeds so it is currently wired to a power bar switch so it runs full speed and I just use the switch to turn it on and off. Just getting x, y and z control working properly for now and likely going to switch the router to my dremel 4000 using a 3d printed mounting bracket I got from thingiverse

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

A complete noob stumbling thru his first cnc build in winter.. and trying to find the time with 2 toddlers..

I really like the 4th axis I purchased a few years back, but when I went looking for it again the suppliers who once carried it no longer do. Anyone know who makes it? Center hole receives collets. I own a ShopSmith so I am using a 5/8th rod and can mount it's chucks onto this machine. Also I like the use of the skateboard wheels, they are adjustable and one could use more sets over a longer axis. The Sherline z-axis is not my first choice, I just had a spare.

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

From plywood and linear rail to c-beam. I probably should have bought a kit.

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

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A functional table for plasma cutting, welding, tooling........

i had the ox build and wanted to do a more beeffer style so i went with a workbee style machine ..

So I thought I would make the Leon van den Beukel version three 3D printed CNC Machine, it is the third incarnation so you would expect a relatively bug-free CNC Machine with a strong foundation.

First time build of the Lead 1010 CNC with the High Z add on.

The plasma CNC that I have built has a water table that measures 1350mm x 650mm. The water is flooded onto the cut area while cutting and recycled around with a pump. This is to reduce smoke, cool the metal being cut to reduce distortion and also to keep sparks to a minimum. Most of the machine has been made from aluminium , the frame and table from steel, the water table, stainless steel.

I have the whole description and all the details in the "Body" section!

Based on the WorkBee CNC, this is an oversized router built with a specific use-case in mind, for manufacutring beehives, and beehive components

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

Cartesian style CNC with a working area of around 360mm x 360mm x 120 mm (X, Y, Z) using Linear rails and ball screws. The linear rails are (Hiwin?) HGR 20mm x 520mm and the ball screws are SFU1204 (12mm lead 4mm) of around +/- 430 mm. The base structure is made from rectangular aluminum profiles of 70mm x 45mm x 3mm (thickness of walls).

It startet in May with some leftovers from a cnc router build. Now in the middle of December its 99% finish. Everything is lowcost, spend about 1600$ so far.

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!

Reworked PhlatPrinter Gen1 Adding dual nema 17s to all 3 axis Supprot for carriage to insure even dept cuts Lighting for view of cutting area

My very first CNC Router build. It's completely scratch built.

Customised Lead 1010 making it a 1510. T-Track work area with dual Y limit switches for auto-squaring. Powered by xPro v5 & CNC.js

I decided to start designing this printer, this will be my solution for a more rugged printer that you can use as workhorses...

An attempt is to be a Unified Modular Controller based on M10CUBE platform. For GRBLHAL and MARLINHAL applications. HAL porting is under way 1 - WIZnet Pico Clone W5100S-EVB-Pico 2 v- 6 X StepStick. Not sure about the sixth driver, (Pico pins limitation) . External connectors for larger drivers 3 - Opto - isolated spindle PWM. 4 - HMI 5 - I/O on diferent modules and Ethernet 10MBPS communication. Patches will be written to GRBLHAL for Ethernet I/Os (Interrupted).

DIY CO2 laser build. Budget friendly, 2020 T/V-slot profiles and scalability.

2x4 cutting area, enclosed with dust collection mainly built out of wood.

This machine is controlled by a Mach3 BOB. I USED Nema 34 stepper motors and a 3kw, water cooled spindle. I’m in the process of adding a vacuum table with 4 zones. I have an X-carve so I use Easel to create G-code for the large machine. I’m currently looking for a way to stabilize the Y-axis. It wiggles a little, so I want to add another linear rail high on both sides.

That is the only cnc you will need for most of your diy projects.

Je ne sais pas comment brancher mon laser sur la blackbox?

Plexi Panel to use for a vfd test enclosure. The box will be wall-mounted on plywood, so the back of the box is not necessary. - The bottom of the box is not necessary because the box will be fixed on concrete on the floor. On the door, I was thinking of putting 4 brackets instead of two. We'll have two 21” doors