Dirt cheap build.

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

I decided to start designing this printer, this will be my solution for a more rugged printer that you can use as workhorses...

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that... This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

Currently completely imaginary

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

Fascinated for some time by 3D Printing. Now, after studying countless forum posts, blogs and similiar stuff, i want to Start with my own build. Maybe a bit much but usually i thrive with the challenge.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

D-Bot with a Replicate controller.

So I thought I would make the Leon van den Beukel version three 3D printed CNC Machine, it is the third incarnation so you would expect a relatively bug-free CNC Machine with a strong foundation.

Build using standard parts as much as possible, Open Builds etc. To keep printer usable for more materials will be trying a heated bed with rotary elec union for the thermistor and power.

The idea here is to build a nice large delta bot from the parts ground on the one builds part store. Other parts that are sources out side of this will be detailed. I have a simple BOM I started that I will upload later.

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

A 200mm x 300mm x 200mm workhorse that never needs leveling due to Posi-Drive Leveling design.

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

We are introducing the Cairo30 3d-printer! It’s our new premium creature with no compromises! The Cairo30 3d-printer is the culmination of our accumulated years of experience designing and producing open-source CNC machines kits.

Functional real-world 3D printer build with RM2-2RS bearings in routed V grooves on phenolic resin rails (lab countertop scraps) and NSK 25mm linear rails/trucks.

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

a dual extruder build using direct drive for flexible filaments

Building a printer that can fit inside and operate at ~200 C oven temperatures

Massive Delta printer with a print area of 25 Inches (634mm).

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

A Large Printer that will hopefully be able to print at least 45cm cubed

1500*1500*1900 (xyz) Biocomposite Pellet 3D printer

F-Ender-Plus its based on the Ender 3 Pro, but improved: CR-10 hotend, double gear extruder, double z-axis motor, bltouch incorporated, hotbed leveling improved strings kit. Most made using local vendor parts, and still I'm increasing my knowledge of how get better 3D printings by calibrating motors steps, leveling the hotbed and z-axis; using a 3mm thick glass...

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!