This is my own modified version of the D-Bot printer. I wanted to spec this printer to be able to print exotic materials at high accuracy with little to no compromises and maximum reliability.

Kind of hard to see in this pic now lining up drive s and finishing framework

I have parts that are apparently not suited to a cnc router or a 3d printer. I am still trying to figure out what to make out of what I have,

Hi my name is crispin and I'm an aluminum addict.

Modified Tevo

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

inspired by http://openbuilds.org/builds/c-beam-sphinx.3605/

I have the demand to cut/etch tall pieces of material. For this reason, I have designed a machine with 500mm uprights with adjustable gantry height. This way I can raise/lower the sled and z-axis as needed. I've also chosen to use a linear C-channel assembly for the Z axis with the plate mounted to the gantry instead of the other way around. This will allow for maximum range of the z-axis. The parts list/BOM does not include motors/belts/pulleys or electronics.

You will be following the assembly of the mechanical kit and how i integrate the electronics into the final build.

My first build based on the original C beam Sphinx. I’m not sure at this point what the final size will be. I have the parts from the c beam Sphinx and extra beams and lead screws to build up to 1000mm x 1000mm.

This build will be based on the C-Beam Plate Maker, with additional changes based on other builds and ideas.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Using basic standard components, beams, motors, belt drive on x and y, z is a screw. Using Grbl Panel on Windows 10. Really basic router, had trouble getting the controller to turn on the router and set speeds so it is currently wired to a power bar switch so it runs full speed and I just use the switch to turn it on and off. Just getting x, y and z control working properly for now and likely going to switch the router to my dremel 4000 using a 3d printed mounting bracket I got from thingiverse

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

This easy to build and effective system can take your builds to the next level! This design is strong and accurate and could be the solution/upgrade that you've been looking for!

This easy to build actuator is configured to have not only strength, but accuracy! This low profile option offers endless possibilities, and we cant wait to see how this actuator is implemented in your build ideas!

From plywood and linear rail to c-beam. I probably should have bought a kit.

This is a major redesign to the Z-axis of an otherwise stock Shapeoko 2.

Started with a Rigidbot Big Added a single flat glass bed Used a Smoothieboard clone driving DRV8825

A functional table for plasma cutting, welding, tooling........

i had the ox build and wanted to do a more beeffer style so i went with a workbee style machine ..

So I thought I would make the Leon van den Beukel version three 3D printed CNC Machine, it is the third incarnation so you would expect a relatively bug-free CNC Machine with a strong foundation.

How to convert an angle grinder into an electric drill? Remove the angle grinder, leaving only one main motor, and then find a suitable intermediate roller with a point drill to assemble it.

The plasma CNC that I have built has a water table that measures 1350mm x 650mm. The water is flooded onto the cut area while cutting and recycled around with a pump. This is to reduce smoke, cool the metal being cut to reduce distortion and also to keep sparks to a minimum. Most of the machine has been made from aluminium , the frame and table from steel, the water table, stainless steel.

Getting more height out of the !510

I have the whole description and all the details in the "Body" section!

Based on the WorkBee CNC, this is an oversized router built with a specific use-case in mind, for manufacutring beehives, and beehive components

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

Cartesian style CNC with a working area of around 360mm x 360mm x 120 mm (X, Y, Z) using Linear rails and ball screws. The linear rails are (Hiwin?) HGR 20mm x 520mm and the ball screws are SFU1204 (12mm lead 4mm) of around +/- 430 mm. The base structure is made from rectangular aluminum profiles of 70mm x 45mm x 3mm (thickness of walls).

Reworked PhlatPrinter Gen1 Adding dual nema 17s to all 3 axis Supprot for carriage to insure even dept cuts Lighting for view of cutting area

Customised Lead 1010 making it a 1510. T-Track work area with dual Y limit switches for auto-squaring. Powered by xPro v5 & CNC.js

An attempt is to be a Unified Modular Controller based on M10CUBE platform. For GRBLHAL and MARLINHAL applications. HAL porting is under way 1 - WIZnet Pico Clone W5100S-EVB-Pico 2 v- 6 X StepStick. Not sure about the sixth driver, (Pico pins limitation) . External connectors for larger drivers 3 - Opto - isolated spindle PWM. 4 - HMI 5 - I/O on diferent modules and Ethernet 10MBPS communication. Patches will be written to GRBLHAL for Ethernet I/Os (Interrupted).

2x4 cutting area, enclosed with dust collection mainly built out of wood.

long overdue overhaul of 1000 x 1000 machine

That is the only cnc you will need for most of your diy projects.