A lightweight, portable, accurate 3D Printer that has a good sized print area and small overall footprint that is easy to build, with easy to source components. The design is OpenSource allowing those with the capability to make their own parts get up and running.

An open source 3D printer design with a sturdy V-Slot frame

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

A 3D printer without belts, a print volume of 320x320x260mm, obviously the V-Slot as linear guide! and a maximum of printed pieces.

A full scalable 3D Printer , with a big printing area. Build with openbuild parts from www.vslot-europe.com

Cross-beam Cartesian 3d printer with dual master/slave lightweight fiberglass drive shafts, BMG style extruder with Bowden (Capricorn) tubing. Hot end is Creality Ender 3 style with two fans and BLTouch for autoleveling. Filament runout sensor is also included.

3D printer with 7 drivers, compact, dual extruder, no CNC part. All Openbuilds and 3D printed part. This is purely experimental.

A quiet, 8inx8in build area, Cartesian printer with permanently level bed. This is a compact, solid, inexpensive printer that will reliably print any type filament for thousands of hours while you sleep, fish, or play ball in the park.

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

Maximus Evolution : 380mm x 400mm XL 3D Printer

Large 600mm x 350mm x 350mm Build Volume with lead screw driven motion. The printer build has a moving gantry and fixed heat bed. Open Source

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

I have wanted a 3D printer for a while. I had thought to convert my ShapeOko machine to a 3D printer BUT after looking at having to replace the electronics with new and the small form factor. I went looking for a kit which would do what I want. Well I found it. It is the MakerFarm i3v printer.

A stable and strong 3D printer made of 16mm MDF and machined on my OX.

While mimicing the frame platform of the popular Crealiy CR-10 and Ender series, the Vulcan MAX overcomes design weaknesses in both printers. Chief improvements are a more stable, rigid mounting of the Z frame and Z gantry.

OKMI 3d Printer based on CoreXY

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

The aim of this OpenBot build, was to make a 3d Printer that was easy to build with minimal tools and using of the shelve parts from Openbuilds.

Larger format FDM printer using C-Beam linear stages

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

A Prusa i3 design running on Open Build's mini V wheels

This is Adamantine, a all aluminum lead screw driven 3d printer. I wanted to have a printer that would not be effected by the heat or humidity I have here as my current wood frame printer is.

BNC3D Signax + Voron = Sigron IDEX

Remix of the Prusa i3 Bear with added IDEX

OneZ gets it's name from it's most unique feature - only motor for the Z axis while maintaining the stability of two bearing guides for the Z axis. Reduction to one Z motor eliminates need for auto bed leveling.

The QuadRap 3D printer version based on OpenBuilds wheels. Born in https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/103539262895202172380

Yet Another Openbuilds Printer, my version :-P

A steel framed 3D printer using a similar design with my CNC Router.

Rigid 3d printer with more than enough room for dual extruders. Easily expandable platform.

This is the next version of Dash, now operating much closer to its potential. Please message me if you need anything, such as Simplify3D settings, material information, design intent etc. Since the Pack-and-Go zip file is fairly large (120mB), here is a link where it can be downloaded: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q3ygyo_tTrB4UYIV62_wtCSCbWuE3krT/view?usp=sharing Note: I use Solidworks 2022, acquired through their Solidworks for Makers program (check it out!). A super deal at $100/yr

This is a work in progress 3D printer Dimensions are 230x230x340mm height. Print dimensions are: 135x135x160mm. Prototype has a bowden extruder with a J-head hotend. Assembly instructions: http://reprapstyle.blogspot.pt

A beefed up modification of the TrueUp Kit project

My version a Cartesian style 3d printer, an attempt to eliminate frame vibration and movement and to use up materials left over from other projects.

This project shows how to use Openbuilds Vv slot extrusions and wheels to retrofit a Lulzbot Taz 4 or 5 printer. These modifications improve layer consistency, eliminate nozzle and bed sag, and allow for larger toolhead mounting. Project updates and newer accessory files may be located at http://www.thingiverse.com/piercet/designs

This is an all metal build using OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails to produce a high quality and cost effective 3D printer. The printer is designed to be scalable for your desired build area and can utilize high quality hotends with 16mm groove mounts such as E3D.

The Prusa i3 (iteration 3) is the newest and most current 3D Printer design by RepRap Core Developer Prusajr (source: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3)

in construction ! chassis vslot 80x20 & 20x20 & 60x80 (Z) home made plates with whells polycarbonate build volume environ, 750x300x200 2 ed3d v6 volcano nozzles 0.8mm & 0.6 + titan extrudeurs rumba bord + auto levelling ip camera home made heat bed aluminium 5mm + glass + heat air chamber 6 doors plexiglass......

This is a simple, yet rugged design, weighing only 6 lbs and with 13x13x14" volume with a 8x8x6" build area. While assembly is pretty simple, the small size and rigidity of the design make shipping assembled printers attractive.

A completely belt driven cartesian design with a center mounted X motor. This is a very compact, rugged design.

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer. My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

Simple cartesian style CNC. Uses ACME screws for all 3 axes, 20x40 v-slots and should have 50cm x 50cm x 50cm work volume.

A posi-drive leveling printer in 300x300x380mm format that easily breaks down for suitcase size shipping.

Multi-tool 3D printer, laser cutter, and CNC mill.

In Greek mythology, Talos (/ˈteɪlɒs/;[1] Greek: Τάλως, Talōs) was a giant man of bronze made by Hephaestus (the Greek god of fire, metalworking, craftsmen and blacksmiths) who protected Europa in Crete from pirates and invaders. He circled the island's shores three times daily.

Transformation of an OpenBuilds Mini Mill into a convertible 3D printer / CNC mill with interchangeable tooling. Maybe a bonus conversion TBD.

Large scale True 500x500x500 build volume 3D printer.

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

My goal is to upgrade the acrylic ANET A8 to all metal.

A minimum parts build with belt driven Z-axis.

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

This is my 1st submission to openbuilds.com and my 1st venture into building a 3D Printer. The Phoenix 3d Printer is a kit from Ez3D, a company based out of Colorado, started and backed by successful Kick-starter and IndieGogo campaigns. The Phoenix 3d Printer kit is currently backlogged 10 to 12 weeks which means quite a wait. I will be chronicling my experience with this kit as I get it done.

The STEAM Crane 3d printer uses the new C-Beam linear rail. It is being developed for an after school / summer camp program for kids. All of the electronics are housed in the base and the wiring is routed down the channels of the c-beam. This is done to contain as much of the loose wiring as possible, hopefully keeping it safer for kids.

ELECTRONICS - ARDUINO Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 + power supply 12V - Leadshine DM 5042 external driver + Power supply 36V + NEMA 23 stepper motor SOFTWARE - Repetier Host to communicate with the Ramps - ARDUINO to upload the firmware (Marlin) MECANIC - V-Slots rails 40x40 + home-made plates - everything goes fine on the side of the build

This a redesign of the Folger-Tech Y-Carriage using the Solid V-Wheels, Ball Bearings, the V-Slot Rail System.

Concept for a Prusa i3 made from Cbeam Extrusion. X & Y using GT2 Belts, Z using Acme Screws Goal is to build a simple. and very Solid Printer Single Z Motor to keep the Z Screws in Sync. (Might require Geared Nema 17) 12" x 12" x 12" Build volume Nema 17's

This is Fina; My Lautr3k inspired build.

Cartesian Printer, 200mm x 200mm x 380mm build area, enclosed, belt and pinion movement, heated bed, Raspberry Pi, Pi Cam, OctoPrint

OX MultiMachine

An all metal construction cartesian style 3D printer with a very rigid frame that has the flexibility to function as a desktop milling station or laser cutter with appropriate user designed attachments. Design is scaleable to suit any size requirement. All axis are leadscrew driven. V-Slot and Mini V-wheels have been utilised for the linear rails.

How to build an Independent Dual EXtruder (IDEX) 3D printer from OpenBuilds parts.

The Roberta Clementine a proof of concept and progenitor to the series of printers I will be calling the Clementine Sisters. The printer is named after Pittsburgh Pirates baseball player Roberto Clemente. Although it is more accurate to say the printer is named after the school I work for which is named after Clemente the Roberto Clemente Charter School. http://www.myrccs.com Roberta is the first and not really built to last but instead built to test ideas and to produce the parts for successors

You are about to read the evolution of my 3d Printer build.

This build is inspired by the Lulzbot Taz printers and makes use of the new OpenBuilds C-Beam

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OpenBuilds box type printer using min-v-wheels for X & Y axis. Designed for plexiglas panel enclosure of build area.

Upgrading printers for Synchronous Leveling

Hi! This build is, or at least should be, a multipurpose box (mBOX). Due to limited space I want to build something that can serve multiple purposes such as 3d printing, 3d scan, plexiglass cutting and hopefully some milling too (both wood and metal). Switching between modes should involve switching heads and worksurface (change heatbed with a wood platform and viceversa). (for the scan part I'm thinking of integrating this opensource project into the frame: http://www.freelss.org/ )

A version of TrueUp using linear bearings/rods for the Z axis. This required enough modification to make a separate OpenBuilds project to avoid confusion for DIYers.

Mid range build.

This is a heavily modified system based on the RatRig V-Cast. Lots of personal touches, and a LOT more to come!

My DIY 3D Printer build which is similar to an i3 style printer. This is a fully documented step-by-step build with videos.

A portable 3D Printer that can flat pack into a hard carry case

A Laut3k derivative that goes for volume and large number of print materials at the same time. Using OpenBuild linear motion systems to get away from belt drives.

Hello ! This is my very first OpenBuilds build. It's based on the Maximus 3D Printer, published by mytechno3d : good source of inspiration !

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

Someone donated a E3D Volcano to me (http://e3d-online.com/Volcano/V6-VOLCANO-POWER-PACK-175-UNIVERSAL-24V) and with a super hotend like that, it feels like a waste to stick it into a small 3D printer. So I decided I want a 320x220mm (XY) machine, 200mm Z is plenty for me

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

Over 840 parts. Of whom around 450 are screws and nuts, more than 100 parts are printed on a 3D printer, the frame consists of about 60 components. There is nearly 40 electrical components connected with tens of meters of wires, most of them sleeved.

Below are the details of my build and a good story for those who read till the end. Sorry for the grammar

We are introducing the Cairo Mini 3d-printer! It’s a DIY fully Open-source Reproducible 20x20cm 3d-printer. The original goal of the Cairo Mini 3d-printer is to create a low-cost 3d-printer below 220$(3500 LE). That anyone can build with ease.

I am building a H bot style printer so this design will not be finished any more than it is.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

Mega-sized Taz machine. Supports many tools (extrusion, laser, mill, etc) simultaneously.

tronxy x3 like

My version of the popular Lautr3k 3D printer. UNI Panther colors of Purple and Yellow on black V-slot rails. 300x300 bed.

A fully aluminium printer made from off the shelf components, no printed parts.

Tough 3D Printer using OpenBuilds Parts!

Mini Additive Manufacturing Printer by Chris Scholl

Custom build, after building the prusa i3 and upgrading to i3v, I wanted to build something more sturdy that can print fast and more accurate. Model is built in Fusion 360

Watercooled 3D printer

Portable, high-speed, low-cost advanced multi-tool desktop factory derived from LulzBot Taz and TazMega.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands