Hello ! This is my very first OpenBuilds build. It's based on the Maximus 3D Printer, published by mytechno3d : good source of inspiration !

The Mule is a 3-axis CNC inspired by the OX CNC by Mark Carew. This machine borrows the OX's sturdy frame and upgrades the X and Y linear actuators through the use of three 500mm lead screws (as opposed to the belt system of the OX). The result is an inexpensive, sturdy, and powerful design built for cutting tough materials such as aluminum.

An easy Epic Win for novice engineers new to the RepRap project www.3distributed.com

more to come, please follow along the journey!

This unit is made with openbuild v-rail and c-beam. using direct drive with lead screws. Nema23 motors

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

This is a big 609 x 609 x 914 3d pritner with exchangable hot ends and extruders.

Z axes 1605 ballscrew, a comparative design proposal.

A 3D Scanning Station

ELECTRONICS - ARDUINO Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 + power supply 12V - Leadshine DM 5042 external driver + Power supply 36V + NEMA 23 stepper motor SOFTWARE - Repetier Host to communicate with the Ramps - ARDUINO to upload the firmware (Marlin) MECANIC - V-Slots rails 40x40 + home-made plates - everything goes fine on the side of the build

This build is for a testing rig to use while testing out different controller boards and CAM software for milling and routing. It is in the early stages, planning is complete, parts are ordered. Awaiting parts delivery to start build. Please not the BOM only covers parts from the OpenBuilds part store. I will be posting the other required items very shortly.

XDrive 3d printer, high quality large build volume.

Machined Aluminum MagBall Carriages

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

My first build was with the basic C-Beam Build. I soon found the z clearance a little constricting So I added 2 500 mm actuators to support the x axis rail . I also left off the front and back y axis support rails for easy cleaning. I mounted the base of the machine to 1/2" mdf with 10/32 screws and blind nuts.

This is a variant of a typical OX (Mark Carew inspiration) router using C-Beams/8mm Acme rods to drive all three axis. I went with a 1000mm x 1000mm frame size. Useable space is 28" (711mm) X 26" (660mm) with a Z axis work travel of approx. 3.25" (82.5mm). A TinyG is used as a controller along with Fusion 360/Chilipper as the software for generating and running gcode files.

Over 840 parts. Of whom around 450 are screws and nuts, more than 100 parts are printed on a 3D printer, the frame consists of about 60 components. There is nearly 40 electrical components connected with tens of meters of wires, most of them sleeved.

This is my journey from a dream machine to a practical (for me) machine. This is a Cartesian style frame that can change tool heads quickly. The first version will have milling and 3D printing tool heads. Later on I'll add a drag knife tool head.

A dual extrusion CoreXY printer with a 290 X 290mm build volume built entirely out of 2020 aluminum extrusion and using openbuilds mini-carriages for motion.

Larger format FDM printer using C-Beam linear stages

3d Structured Light Scanner with Arduino Controlled Turntable

H-Bot mechanics 3D printer. Build volume - 300x300x300mm dimensions: 560x500x500mm

Watercooled 3D printer

A Rigid Delta Printer using C-Beam screw actuators

Fast, Large build area, CoreXY design

Sheethexapod works with basic mechanims as direct metal-metal links and joints, all movements can be done by a rc servomotor in this case towerpro model.

This is my own modified version of the D-Bot printer. I wanted to spec this printer to be able to print exotic materials at high accuracy with little to no compromises and maximum reliability.

HE3D K200 kit build

A light 3D printer made of OpenBuilds hardware only

CNC OX 1500X3000

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

Kind of hard to see in this pic now lining up drive s and finishing framework

This 1500mm tall Delta is a work in progress. The triangle corners are water jetted from 1" 6061 Aluminum, and are welded to 1" square tubing. The 1500mm OpenBuilds 20x20 V-Slot extrusions are held into the corner brackets by two stainless steel set screws per bracket. This printer will need to be reinforced with wall brackets due to the combination of height/materials.

Please, look over my build and make any recommendations you can think of! I haven't figured out how long my arms need to be yet. Nor have I done any shopping around to find better prices...

This printer will leverage scrap pieces around the shop to fulfill a single print's needs. It will use a combination of 80/20, OpenBuilds, and 3D printed parts.

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that... This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

I have parts that are apparently not suited to a cnc router or a 3d printer. I am still trying to figure out what to make out of what I have,

I want to have a printer to support senior projects. Also working on supporting 3D printing needs in the local community.

A DIY 3D printer. At beginning made from aluminium profiles, aluminium sheet and wood :)

Large scale delta robot using c-beam as the core frame component.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

DIY Pano Head

How to modularize the 3D Systems Cube 3 extruder nozzle.

The aim of this build is to have a CNC that can cut a FULL sheet of wood when I need it to, but also shrink down and cut smaller sheets the rest of the time. The prototype is based on an OX cnc but soon it will be completely custom using Openbuilds Parts

Fully welded, fixed gantry CNC router, with chinese linear motion parts, in progress

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

I made a cam slider prototype with adjustable rotation to get experience for my CNC milled slider in planing.

an 8020 build with 1010 extrusion (1") Square tubing Rough size is 24x24x36 (600x600x900) The expected usable print area 21.5x21.5X32"roughly (510x510x760) An XY 3D printer with 3 extruders and 3 Z-axis 0.9 degree motors the table (Z-AXIS) will lift up to the XY Carriage on 3 12mm linear rod and 3 8mm Lead screw's Corexy designs complete and Z-axis build is started don’t have a 3D cad system yet so building my prototypes on a pcb layout tool

Aluminum-framed enclosure for TAZ 6 3d Printer made with Makerlink.

It all started after my prusa i3 build inspired me to experiment with resin 3D printers because I want to learn if they are worth it and if I can design my own printer.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

2 1/2 axis CNC chassis. Convertible to plasma, 3D printer and welder. Currently used as router. Plotting table dim: X axis 620 mm, Y 650 mm, Z 100 mm. Created for teaching purposes, open source license, currently used for engraving ukiyo-e wood plates and printmaking

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

I will post soon some more details.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

OOZNEST Style OX machine with 3D printed panels

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

A small business idea led us here, lets see where it will go.

A copy of the Stainless Ox by Martin Barfoed. Similar design, construction and control.

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

The parts are now very reasonable.

To begin the "Build" I have ordered a few parts from OpenBuilds to get started. They are arriving today; according to "tracking". I cant wait! Praise Jesus! This 85 yr old man is getting a "New " life. Hallelujah and amen. Because I am building this on an existing machine, I have to be careful; so I will order some parts then see what I don't need (such as a base); along with parts that I may need to adapt it to the machine. It should be fun! "Caint wait!"

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

I ordered the OpenBuilds MiniMill from the OpenBuilds Parts Store http://openbuildspartstore.com/ They were out of Motors and Electronics when I ordered so I had to source these items elsewhere. But it turned out well doing it this way.

This build is my version of the CBeam machine. I opted to NOT use the Gussets, and instead went for the 40, and 60 mil angle brackets to cut the price back a little further. I started with the smoothieboard but decided it was still "too new" and very much experimental. This build took me a few (2-3) days to complete. The CBeams and Lead-Screws really make building things faster since you don't have to clamor over belts.

This is my first CNC build. As per the norm, I went in with months of research, planning, and resource gathering tied neatly together with a solid plan. As the path went on, the plan continued to change to accommodate issues I hadn't counted on. But, at the end of the road, the project reached completion, and I learned a ton along the way!

A simple approach to making the Eleksmaker A3 Laser build have a better functioning X-Carriage! Of course this assumes you bought an Eleksmaker A3 or plan to.

Modify a Gen1 Cube printer into a small cnc router to cut pcbs and light (VERY light) milling work. Also easy to swap out the rotary head and mount a laser head for engraving.

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

Some enhancements of the basic mini-mill

Theoretical Working area: 38" x 24" x 6" Actual Working Area: 31" x 23.6" x 4" Positioning Accuracy: about 0.01mm

I got lucky enough to purchase aluminum extrusions and linear motion components (and nuts/bolts/etc) at scrap metal prices when a bunch of industrial automation equipment was decommissioned. The only problem is that the aluminum extrusions are not metric sizes... they are the 1.5"x3" 80/20 series. It has presented a few challenges but nothing too bad.

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

This printer is a design that has evolved over three years. The original goals of this project were to design a rigid printer that had a large print volume, 300mm^3, with easily sources parts and a minimum of complicated printed parts.

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

A few mods on my Ooznest supplied Ox cnc Encountered a few minor issues along the way but now all sorted.

The SMW3D OX, original other than a lot of learning!

pictures and mony doku see later

Fully OpenBuilds based Core XY printer design by Rat Rig. CAD files, build manual, build videos available!

2in1 ( 3dPrint+laser Engraving )

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

This OpenBuilds C-Beam XLarge X/Y Table is a great display of how easy it is to modify and create awesome configurations with the OpenBuilds system!

This easy to build and effective system can take your builds to the next level! This design is strong and accurate and could be the solution/upgrade that you've been looking for!

3d printable galvos

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

So, not much here, as I'm still building, but I'm putting in the work.

A proper CNC mill conversion. But quite small, with my trademark idiosyncracies.

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

A slightly more than one half cubic meter 3D Printer using V Rails, V Rollers, "C" Rail, mounting plates, and a bunch of 3D printed brackets to provide strength and stability to the frame. Rigidity was the goal and precision and accuracy the result. The software is a whole other topic, many weeks spent dialing that in to make the printer print.

I'm building a CNC router for a long time. Here's the result on this long journee. I tried to do my best with the basic tools I have. Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.

This example build shows how easy it is to make a linear actuator using a few OpenBuilds Parts.