Dead build.

A 200mm x 300mm x 200mm workhorse that never needs leveling due to Posi-Drive Leveling design.

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2(s), MK2.5 and MK3 3D printer

Building a CoreXY based 3D printer using primarily parts from China on eBay. Large 500mm frame.

Large 2 foot x 3 foot x 4.5 foot build volume Core XY printer build in process at this point. I am designing everything from scratch and using typincal parts bought from amazon for the build.

20x26x28 inch Build Volume CoreXY. Unlike many builds, I've decoupled the XY movements from the Z-Axis lead screws to help prevent Wobble, will be using linear guide rails, and mains powered bed heater, and a bed that is Allowed to thermally grow. This build is JUST narrow enough to fit through a standard sized doorway.

A CoreXY/Bowden design with a belt driven Z axis. This is a box design without the front end of the box, making the print area and maintenance, like changing a nozzle, easily accessible.

Dirt cheap build.

SLA LCD 3D Printer ( 8.9'' LCD screen )

This is an experiment to build a Linear Delta Printer using four towers instead of three. Primary reasons: 1. Build area is roughly cubic vs roughly cylindrical 2. Greater speed and precision from additional control provided by fourth tower. 3. Symmetric kinematics from even number of towers.

A stable and strong 3D printer made of 16mm MDF and machined on my OX.

Core-XY build witha quad nozzle

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

A 250x250 mm Delta Printer utilizing a Duet Wifi controller and a Titan Aero direct drive extruder.

tronxy x3 like

A 3D printer without belts, a print volume of 320x320x260mm, obviously the V-Slot as linear guide! and a maximum of printed pieces.

New ultra large 3D Printer design. I'm calling it the AutoCrafter

All metal frame 500mm bed Delta 3D printer

This my version of a large no corners cut Delta.

Started with a Rigidbot Big Added a single flat glass bed Used a Smoothieboard clone driving DRV8825

In-progress 500x500x1800

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer. My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

As this is a build in progress, I will update it as I progress.

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

A Large format 3D printer

This will be a fixed bed, v-slot implemented X,Y,Z axis gantry style 3D printer.

Video on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCTbLZ2_m-w&t=36s

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

I myself invented this concept printer form

Large scale delta robot using c-beam as the core frame component.

Maximus Evolution : 380mm x 400mm XL 3D Printer

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

Huge - Fast - Affordable

This is a modification I made to my Voxel Ox 3D Printer Z axis, which synchronizes the Z leadscrews via a shaft and helical gear transmission. It prevents the two Z leadscrew from getting out of adjustment relative to each other, and uses a single Z motor instead of two. This build is just documenting the specific changes I have made to the Z-axis, since the frame and other axes are still from the original Voxel Ox design.

My self-designed and built, tall-format coreXY printer with 300 x 300 x695 mm print capacity.

This printer is a design that has evolved over three years. The original goals of this project were to design a rigid printer that had a large print volume, 300mm^3, with easily sources parts and a minimum of complicated printed parts.

pictures and mony doku see later

Light enough for high speed #3dprinting Strong enough for high speed #3dprinting

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Roberta Clementine's first daughter printer Alice Clementine!

OKMI 3d Printer based on CoreXY

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

Stronger frame for Prusa i3 MK2 / MK2s / MK2.5 3D printer

D-Bot with a Replicate controller.

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

I wanted to try a different way of operating the Z Axis so I setup a tower using 40x40. In the end it worked excellently and can easily print 60mm/s with 150mm/s travels. The coreXY is a very cool kinematic, and you can get some pretty great speed and accuracy. The main issue is the fact your Steps/mm are doubled, so the lower end motors don't like it at high speeds.

Fast, Large build area, CoreXY design

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

My goal is to upgrade the acrylic ANET A8 to all metal.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

Modified Tevo

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

This design should give the same performance as the high speed Ultimaker since it uses a similar ultra-light X/Y concept which eliminates any movement of both the X and Y motors to achieve X/Y travel.

A smaller version of a standard D-bot. Smaller to fit better in my workable area and to fit my vision for the printer.

A simplified version of the TrueUp LZ. Designed for classrooms and students

Lord willing I will be showing you how build a robust and easy to build 3D printer framework using V-Slot rails and rollers. It's a little bulky, but it has all spring tensioned rollers on all axes, and can be built entirely without custom machining on any parts. You will need digital calipers, a drill press, a carbide toothed miter saw for cutting aluminum extrusions, and lots of little screws!

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

What a way to learn about 3D printing

High quality e3d parts with a minimalist design

A Large Printer that will hopefully be able to print at least 45cm cubed

CoreXZ implementation on 3d printer using Openbuild and RobotDigg parts.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

Building a Delta-6 variant, using recycled parts from a WolfStock Delta printer.

A Large CoreXY build that can just barely get in through a doorway, aiming for under $1000. Build Volume approximately 18in x 24in x 26in.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

Building upon the great work done by Marshall Peck and others. I have started a new build.

A stout 3D printer build with the hopes of being able to serve as a light mill (PCB) and laser engraver

Polar Bot which used to depress buttons

Super rigid Delta printer, using 20X40 V-Slot

A steel framed 3D printer using a similar design with my CNC Router.

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

im just starting and the size of this is 1.5 meter from base to end

This is an inexpensive build, large volume 2225 cubic inch, CORE XY 3D printer providing decent speed with precise and repeatable precision with expandable features.

CoreXY build

This project is focused on developing a low-cost, portable and open-source FDM 3D Printer.

Portable, high-speed, low-cost advanced multi-tool desktop factory derived from LulzBot Taz and TazMega.

Mid range build.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

CoreXY cube with 600x600x800 volume.