Total belt drive GT2

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

I made a cam slider prototype with adjustable rotation to get experience for my CNC milled slider in planing.

Design Change - Version 2.0 has a smaller foot print, custom gantry supports, and front and back covers. I will use standard V-Slot for gantry supports leaving me enough travel to manufacture the customer supports with this machine when completed. then update to final build. I also plan to install the controller into the front cover and power supply into the back cover. Should be nice and tidy.

The plan is to make this a fairly stock D-Bot build. We'll see if mods start creeping in.

Simple design with a large build volume - 450x450x450

This will be a fixed bed, v-slot implemented X,Y,Z axis gantry style 3D printer.

This is a simple lamp using only 2 LEDs & 2 AAA batteries.

an 8020 build with 1010 extrusion (1") Square tubing Rough size is 24x24x36 (600x600x900) The expected usable print area 21.5x21.5X32"roughly (510x510x760) An XY 3D printer with 3 extruders and 3 Z-axis 0.9 degree motors the table (Z-AXIS) will lift up to the XY Carriage on 3 12mm linear rod and 3 8mm Lead screw's Corexy designs complete and Z-axis build is started don’t have a 3D cad system yet so building my prototypes on a pcb layout tool

Aluminum-framed enclosure for TAZ 6 3d Printer made with Makerlink.

It all started after my prusa i3 build inspired me to experiment with resin 3D printers because I want to learn if they are worth it and if I can design my own printer.

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

2 1/2 axis CNC chassis. Convertible to plasma, 3D printer and welder. Currently used as router. Plotting table dim: X axis 620 mm, Y 650 mm, Z 100 mm. Created for teaching purposes, open source license, currently used for engraving ukiyo-e wood plates and printmaking

blueprints here: https://github.com/tomaspavlica/cnc_pkb2

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

Routy based build using 1000mm Y axis beams and 500mm X axis beams. Using a 20x80 Z axis to use the OpenBuilds router mount.

An affordable large CNC machine, that so far has been easy to assemble

Cbeam machine. Using small stepper motors (NEMA 17) and Arduino controller. Try to get this working in de upcoming month.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

This calculator work inside with a spezail count format - Fraction as Mantisse + Dezimal exponent .. in summ 9 Byte.

The new MiniMill from Mark and Sonny is a great little machine.

Reusing parts to build a CNC - planning stage

This project is focused on developing a low-cost, portable and open-source FDM 3D Printer.

Very stout 2'x4' machine with a deep Z axis

Building my First CNC for PCB milling. Some modification done to the original build from OpenBuild Bundle.

An Openbuilds replacement rail system for the common eBay "K40" C02 Laser Cutter

Home Made CNC Router from Scrape

I will post soon some more details.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

I have the demand to cut/etch tall pieces of material. For this reason, I have designed a machine with 500mm uprights with adjustable gantry height. This way I can raise/lower the sled and z-axis as needed. I've also chosen to use a linear C-channel assembly for the Z axis with the plate mounted to the gantry instead of the other way around. This will allow for maximum range of the z-axis. The parts list/BOM does not include motors/belts/pulleys or electronics.

CNC router table based on OpenBuilds C-Beam Machine bundle.

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

My first attempt at building a CNC style machine. Overall my plan is to use the PlanetCNC breakout board and software to run the machine from a dedicated laptop/tablet.

I would recommend this challenge to any woodworker looking for something new.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Building a Sphinx based CNC based on Kyo's plans. Going with a 1000 x 500 table size.

This is my first CNC router, so be kind on the criticism. I'm still learning. Not an engineer, and not a machinist so I am having to research and learn aspect from both of those areas of study!

OOZNEST Style OX machine with 3D printed panels

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

basic start to design of cnc machine

Currently i am reworking the frame still with current available parts just going to buy material to make the y and the z axis from openbuilds. The x axis is now going to be mobile similar to a 3d printer style.

a 1000mm x 1500mm CBeam build with hgr20 hiwin rails 600w er16 spindle

A small business idea led us here, lets see where it will go.

Automatic spray machine.

Heavily upgrading my 1200x500 Shapeoko 2... ...er, wait, scratch that... Building an all new machine, roughly the same size, that should be more rigid than a Shapeoko 3!

Behemoth cnc router build in progress using hiwil rails and closedloop servos.

Build a manual camera slider.

A modified C-Beam Build with a few Addons

Absolute linear positioning using deBruijn sequences.

A copy of the Stainless Ox by Martin Barfoed. Similar design, construction and control.

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NT0N1rt3F7c it's alive

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

A table top version of the open build xl router kit set build. This use of c - beam and xl kit set was coupled with Mach 3 controller running on Dell opti -plex 755 and win 7 pro licence. A Dell opti-plex 755 empty case was used to house the controls and wiring , including the limit switch and emergency stop safety circuits

An attempt at copying the https://openbuilds.com/builds/makersl-msl-8-ob-vise.4084/ using just off-the-shelf OpenBuilds Parts - no machining

C-beam Plate Maker V-slot Table System to aid in clamping and setup of jobs.

The parts are now very reasonable.

To begin the "Build" I have ordered a few parts from OpenBuilds to get started. They are arriving today; according to "tracking". I cant wait! Praise Jesus! This 85 yr old man is getting a "New " life. Hallelujah and amen. Because I am building this on an existing machine, I have to be careful; so I will order some parts then see what I don't need (such as a base); along with parts that I may need to adapt it to the machine. It should be fun! "Caint wait!"

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

Need cnc to make alumunium sign, brass stamp, etc

I will write a short buildlog here with mostly pictures. I designed this lasercutter in solidworks(not totally finished) for a good overview and such that the steel tubes could be lasercut by a company, the metal frame is based on the lasercutter the KÄSER, which you can find on cnczone.nl. The mechical parts are designed by myself because I had no mill to my use, so the mechnical parts are lasercut(same company as tube) steelplates welded together.

Dust Shoe design for a CNC router. Attaches to Chris Laidlaw's Mount design, with the DeWalt D26200 (which I think is the DWP 611 in the US).

This is my first build so I will let you know how I get on

feel free to ask anything about this builds, but im a airline pilot and sometimes responding maybe will take me. while!!

I ordered the OpenBuilds MiniMill from the OpenBuilds Parts Store http://openbuildspartstore.com/ They were out of Motors and Electronics when I ordered so I had to source these items elsewhere. But it turned out well doing it this way.

Somewhere along the line sometime around February 2017 I got the bug in my head that I needed to build a CNC router. This is where I am today...

This build is my version of the CBeam machine. I opted to NOT use the Gussets, and instead went for the 40, and 60 mil angle brackets to cut the price back a little further. I started with the smoothieboard but decided it was still "too new" and very much experimental. This build took me a few (2-3) days to complete. The CBeams and Lead-Screws really make building things faster since you don't have to clamor over belts.

I wanted to try a different way of operating the Z Axis so I setup a tower using 40x40. In the end it worked excellently and can easily print 60mm/s with 150mm/s travels. The coreXY is a very cool kinematic, and you can get some pretty great speed and accuracy. The main issue is the fact your Steps/mm are doubled, so the lower end motors don't like it at high speeds.

Using basic standard components, beams, motors, belt drive on x and y, z is a screw. Using Grbl Panel on Windows 10. Really basic router, had trouble getting the controller to turn on the router and set speeds so it is currently wired to a power bar switch so it runs full speed and I just use the switch to turn it on and off. Just getting x, y and z control working properly for now and likely going to switch the router to my dremel 4000 using a 3d printed mounting bracket I got from thingiverse

This is a laser cutter built with intent to use arduino as controller for a co2 cutting laser.

This is my first CNC build. As per the norm, I went in with months of research, planning, and resource gathering tied neatly together with a solid plan. As the path went on, the plan continued to change to accommodate issues I hadn't counted on. But, at the end of the road, the project reached completion, and I learned a ton along the way!

Light enough for high speed #3dprinting Strong enough for high speed #3dprinting

This is a video were take a high level look at how I built up my version of a fully open source Motorized Camera Slider (OpenSlider)

Inexpensive Custom CNC Machine or swappable Laser Engraver utilizing OpenBuilds ACRO System

Somewhat Simple Lead screw conversion for an OX CNC.

The user will input a selection from a variety of pre-established drinks. The user will not need a glass, since it will be provided in the automation process. This completely eliminates the need for a bartender if an RFID purchase system is implemented.

Modify a Gen1 Cube printer into a small cnc router to cut pcbs and light (VERY light) milling work. Also easy to swap out the rotary head and mount a laser head for engraving.

Cut Area: 825 x 1340. Max Cutting depth: 2 inches. Arduino based control with Nema 23 and Nema 17 drive. 8mm leadscrew and 2GT belt drive. 400W 48V quite cut spindle.

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

Some enhancements of the basic mini-mill

Theoretical Working area: 38" x 24" x 6" Actual Working Area: 31" x 23.6" x 4" Positioning Accuracy: about 0.01mm

This is my first attempt at building a spindle based CNC machine. The intention is to mill PCB boards and mill delrin blocks. The device was built with an Emergency Stop that actually cuts power to the spindle and motors. This is a post build write-up and consists of finished photo compilation and CAD renderings.

I got lucky enough to purchase aluminum extrusions and linear motion components (and nuts/bolts/etc) at scrap metal prices when a bunch of industrial automation equipment was decommissioned. The only problem is that the aluminum extrusions are not metric sizes... they are the 1.5"x3" 80/20 series. It has presented a few challenges but nothing too bad.

This is my second CNC build, but the first one that I design from the ground up. The base is all metal because I want to add Plasma facility later on. I used the Ox model for the gantry plates and made a few changes to adapt to my design. Since I wanted to use parts from my first CNC to save as much as possible, I kept the 5/8 Hi-Lead Screw I had from Roton for the Y and Z axis. I will also add a downdraft table to keep all parts tight on the table for cutting.

D-Bot with a Replicate controller.

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

Similar to C-Beam Machine build, but with inverted Y-axis assembly to shield drive screw. Integrated XZ gantry can be fixed to any solid surface. Build dimensions are 36" x 36" x 6".

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

Theoretical Working Area: 360x360x75mm Actual Working Area: 300x300x75mm Will Update Later

A stable CNC Router that allows me to cut and carve bigger Parts. The Machine is an original Build from Kyo's Sphinx CNC Machine. Thanks for the great Work and the Effort Kyo. Your Files and Lists helped me a lot to build that Sphinx 1x1m.

This project is for building a remote hand pendant for the Planet-CNC control board but could be adapted for many other projects. The pendant allows for machine control without being at the computer keyboard and the button functions on the pendant are defined by the user.

More stuff here.

Well I built a C-Beam XL around a year ago, I am still learning things as I make stuff with it, it has been quite a wonderful learning experience. Now I have gained enough confidence and knowhow to Mill the required Plates to build an Acro Laser System using the Acro Laser Sketchup Model. I have pulled the Model apart in Sketchup, isolated the Plates and generated the G-Code to cut/Mill the plates. I have used Sketchucam to generate the G-Code. I Use Mach3 on my C-Beam XL to Mill.

OTiS (Off The Shelf) is 500mm cartesian CNC that can be built with all off the shelf parts from OpenBuildsStore. It features C-Beam actuators and a V-Slot frame.

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

My goal was to be able to enlarge my C-Beam with as many original parts as possible. I was able to recycle almost all of them with a only the two 500 mm rails left over. I used 1000 mm rails for the X Axis and I added another complete Y Axis assembly. I chose to keep it simple and I am very happy with the result!

This printer is a design that has evolved over three years. The original goals of this project were to design a rigid printer that had a large print volume, 300mm^3, with easily sources parts and a minimum of complicated printed parts.