Build a 2x72 Belt Grinder out of OpenBuilds V-Slots

Build Notes: Here are all the parts necessary to re-produce this design. Please note, all of the parts are either sourced through openbuilds or have been selected and printed from thingiverse.

A 250x250 mm Delta Printer utilizing a Duet Wifi controller and a Titan Aero direct drive extruder.

Attaches router with screw clamping. Clear Skirt is 2" long or can be made longer if requested. Works well keeping dust within the chamber. It can be made to fit shapeoko, ox cnc, workbee, xcarve, 6040, laguna,piranha, millright etc. with similar setup including Bosh, Makita , dewalt 611 routers or spindles.

I never thought owning a CNC machine was possible until I stumbled upon the Openbuilds site. After viewing numerous builds I was drawn to the Ox by Mark Carew but ultimately decided on a build of similar design, Halloumi by Savvas. It's a C-beam design driven by Nema 23 steppers with Acme lead screws. Like Savvas I will be fabricating temporary plates to get up and running then use the machine to mill the final plates. The material I'm using for the temp plates is solid surface (Avonite).

summary huh... If it doesnt fit MAKE IT!

The OpenCase Mounting Kit makes wire management quick and easy!

How i construct and create my DIY Co2 Laser cutter and engraving mashine. details will follow

This build is based on the Workbee 1010 CNC. It is not a kit build and is much the same as the original but with some significant changes made here and there as the build progresses.

Instructions to build an open-source off-grid medical instrument sterilizer that can be used by aid workers in places without reliable electrical power

The k40 cube is a laser cutter build using mostly stock parts of the chinese k40 laser

The process from my bought printer, to a custom home built machine

Openbuilds 1050 Sphinx. Thank you to Mark Carew for trading me a set of plates for a spindle and PSU I was not using. Mark is a champ!

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer. My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

The Rock n Roll is built on granite, is solid as a rock, and gathers no moss. This build provides a high degree of accuracy and repeatability. Built to be strong, use redundancy, and use long lever arms to average out imperfections in the equipment. Built to go fast and light. We will use a high speed spindle, large high voltage stepper motors and small cutting heads to overwhelm the forces produced at the cutting head.

This will be a fixed bed, v-slot implemented X,Y,Z axis gantry style 3D printer.

Need to build a machine that accurately positions objects for processing by a computer vision algorithm? Here is an example of a machine that does that for a ball trajectory application. The black anodized V-rails work well for applications in optics and imaging where the machine needs to stay out of the limelight.

Trying to build a machine of atleast 4x4ft working area. Work is in progress, hope to finish it soon

A lower profiled machine. Built all out of aluminum. Removable control panel/PC unit. Option for vacuum table and cooling pump for a spindle.

24x32 Cnc Router, I used vSlot c Beam Extrusion and Wheels!

DIY scratch build consisting of gas pipe, skate bearings, 12mm birch, 3/4 maple v-core ply, Nema 23's, and arduino and CNC shield with DRV8825's.

A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.

wooden parts of the enclosure can be removed easily used the existing extraction of my glass bead burners

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800 It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

This is a modification I made to my Voxel Ox 3D Printer Z axis, which synchronizes the Z leadscrews via a shaft and helical gear transmission. It prevents the two Z leadscrew from getting out of adjustment relative to each other, and uses a single Z motor instead of two. This build is just documenting the specific changes I have made to the Z-axis, since the frame and other axes are still from the original Voxel Ox design.

Yet Another Poor's Man CNC (YAPCNC) is my first attempt to build a CNC. The idea is for the build to be as inexpensive as posible while being usable for my goals.

My take on a non affordable slider.

How to make your own anodizing power supply on a budget

My attempt at a Desktop CNC using C-Beam and Open-Rail with Steel Wheel bearings and LeadScrew Drive.

Light enough for high speed #3dprinting Strong enough for high speed #3dprinting

GT2 belt-driven Cartesian 3D Printer on an OpenBuilds Extrusion gantry, developed through Autodesk Fusion 360.

CNC mill for carving / milling Greenland Paddles

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

3D Printer based upon 3d printed parts and open builds componets

This project is for building a remote hand pendant for the Planet-CNC control board but could be adapted for many other projects. The pendant allows for machine control without being at the computer keyboard and the button functions on the pendant are defined by the user.

Mad plumbers choice what Else can i say?

This is my second CNC build, but the first one that I design from the ground up. The base is all metal because I want to add Plasma facility later on. I used the Ox model for the gantry plates and made a few changes to adapt to my design. Since I wanted to use parts from my first CNC to save as much as possible, I kept the 5/8 Hi-Lead Screw I had from Roton for the Y and Z axis. I will also add a downdraft table to keep all parts tight on the table for cutting.

Similar to C-Beam Machine build, but with inverted Y-axis assembly to shield drive screw. Integrated XZ gantry can be fixed to any solid surface. Build dimensions are 36" x 36" x 6".

This is my first CNC build. As per the norm, I went in with months of research, planning, and resource gathering tied neatly together with a solid plan. As the path went on, the plan continued to change to accommodate issues I hadn't counted on. But, at the end of the road, the project reached completion, and I learned a ton along the way!

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

So we have new plates, stronger motors, belt drive reduction, but what should we do with them? In this article you might find the answer you were looking for as we took an “old” C-Beam machine and started to upgrade the X/Z body and added more torque and precision to the Z-axis.

3d Structured Light Scanner with Arduino Controlled Turntable

The parts are now very reasonable.

C-Beam Plate cutter with Raspberry Pi V3, Arduino Mega2560 and Camera. Remote login & operation via SSH with cnc.js server, mjpg server on the Pi.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

A modified C-Beam Build with a few Addons

To help cutting v-slots with hand saw

Build a manual camera slider.

Automatic spray machine.

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

Currently i am reworking the frame still with current available parts just going to buy material to make the y and the z axis from openbuilds. The x axis is now going to be mobile similar to a 3d printer style.

This is a design for a desktop CNC machine. It may be a router or laser. I am undecided as to the final design.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

You will be following the assembly of the mechanical kit and how i integrate the electronics into the final build.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Very stout 2'x4' machine with a deep Z axis

I'm working on a cartesian cnc router for my school research project

The purpose of this build is to create a simple, strong modular build that is rugged enough to cut out some of the softer metals along with wood and plastics. Using basic parts like the universal plates, t-nuts and v- wheels coupled with the strength of C-Beam I am sure this will deliever the desired results!!

My CNC Router design and inspiration came from the Routy CNC project. I modified some of the aspects of the Routy build, but left the original XY dimensions intact. The build has been very enjoyable thus far and am nearing completion of all wiring in preparation for my first test run!

Mid range build.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

A CNC router designed to handle a 4'x8' sheet, for as close to $2000 as possible. The price barrier resulted in my choice to use timing belts rather than leadscrews or rack&pinion. Build List still being updated

The C-Beam Evolution is an evolving machine. The MkII is inspired by Kyo's C-Beam Spinx but currently uses my own design of plates made of 8mm acrylic (X-axis ends) and 6mm polycarbonate (Y axis ends). The plates were made on the MkI but I hope to be able to make 6mm aluminium plates on the MkII for the MkIII.

Hypothesis - Running CO2 laser tubes at high amperage may shoirten tube life in number of hours, but will be made up for by the increase in actual inches engraved/cut using the higher power. This is a long term experiment, so the build status will remain as "Build in progress" until the experiment has been completed.

A wonky build to eliminate slop on a long Z axis

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

Embarking on my first build and trying to start with a clean setup by creating an enclosure box for my controllers and power supply.

A quick and easy way to make a 3-way mitered corner using Corner Connectors

Design Change - Version 2.0 has a smaller foot print, custom gantry supports, and front and back covers. I will use standard V-Slot for gantry supports leaving me enough travel to manufacture the customer supports with this machine when completed. then update to final build. I also plan to install the controller into the front cover and power supply into the back cover. Should be nice and tidy.

I made a cam slider prototype with adjustable rotation to get experience for my CNC milled slider in planing.

In Greek mythology, Talos (/ˈteɪlɒs/;[1] Greek: Τάλως, Talōs) was a giant man of bronze made by Hephaestus (the Greek god of fire, metalworking, craftsmen and blacksmiths) who protected Europa in Crete from pirates and invaders. He circled the island's shores three times daily.

This build is inspired by the Lulzbot Taz printers and makes use of the new OpenBuilds C-Beam

in construction ! chassis vslot 80x20 & 20x20 & 60x80 (Z) home made plates with whells polycarbonate build volume environ, 750x300x200 2 ed3d v6 volcano nozzles 0.8mm & 0.6 + titan extrudeurs rumba bord + auto levelling ip camera home made heat bed aluminium 5mm + glass + heat air chamber 6 doors plexiglass......

DIY Pano Head

I want to have a printer to support senior projects. Also working on supporting 3D printing needs in the local community.

This is going to be a more or less detailed how to build BetterBot. Pictures and more (decent) text are to be added.

Please, look over my build and make any recommendations you can think of! I haven't figured out how long my arms need to be yet. Nor have I done any shopping around to find better prices...

This 1500mm tall Delta is a work in progress. The triangle corners are water jetted from 1" 6061 Aluminum, and are welded to 1" square tubing. The 1500mm OpenBuilds 20x20 V-Slot extrusions are held into the corner brackets by two stainless steel set screws per bracket. This printer will need to be reinforced with wall brackets due to the combination of height/materials.

This is a 1500 X 1500 Stainless OX kit build, by a cnc novice. It is the first cnc machine i have ovned and build I got this kit from http://makersupplies.dk/20-ox-cnc-kits

Kind of hard to see in this pic now lining up drive s and finishing framework

This is a simpel build of a Linear rail for the Dobot Magician.

Pretty much a straight OPENBUILDS OX that slowly getting some modifications.

This is my first major project.

i wanted to use both the ox and the C beam C beam for the gantry because its stronger i also made the gantry 20 mm higher so i can cut thinker material i will maybe later go to rack& pinion on the 1500 mm Y axes also instead of the V wheels i will maybe go to hiwin in the furture

This is the story of my experience building a 1000 x 750mm OOZNest OX CNC router

This is my journey from a dream machine to a practical (for me) machine. This is a Cartesian style frame that can change tool heads quickly. The first version will have milling and 3D printing tool heads. Later on I'll add a drag knife tool head.

This project has been a steep learning curve in an unfamiliar area for me. It has been a very rewarding experience and has opened up so many more possibilities to pursue in the future.

A Controlbox for my CNC-Router, containing stepper-drivers, Planet-CNC MK3 Controller and a Controlpanel with joysticks.

C-Beam build using a double C-Beam for the X axis. 1500mm x 1500mm

OX metal build from an noob

The Soccer Pitch for our Robot Spider Soccer game

This is Adamantine, a all aluminum lead screw driven 3d printer. I wanted to have a printer that would not be effected by the heat or humidity I have here as my current wood frame printer is.

This is a CNC Line Boring Machine for our cabinet shop. It drills the holes every 32 mm for the adjustable shelf pins in the cabinet side pieces. I chose this option over purchasing a multi-head boring machine that requires 11 drill bits - Left & Right hand twist - that also requires a lot of strength to plunge that many drill bits into the wood to be drilled.

This is a simple, yet rugged design, weighing only 6 lbs and with 13x13x14" volume with a 8x8x6" build area. While assembly is pretty simple, the small size and rigidity of the design make shipping assembled printers attractive.

A CoreXY D-Bot 3d printer using gantries as wheel-carriages.

A design in progress, to 3D carve two-part Aluminium injection moulds for Soft Plastic Lures and Lead Jigs, so I can prototype some of the concepts rattling around in my head. All Openbuilds parts where possible, 1000x500mm footprint, 0.8kw Water-cooled Spindle?, High Torque Stepper?,Smoothieboard?, I still have no idea. As a newbie to the CNC world, any wisdom would be welcome to take this from just a idea into reality so I can start playing with all this awesome stuff. Thanks in advance